Galley Maid Windlass..some basic questions

[IOLANI]

Help a novice out here please. I addressed a sticky foot switch today in preparation for trying out the Galley Maid windlass for the first time. I've never used an anchoring mechanism this large and powerful before and I have some basic questions.
The gearbox seems to work well in both directions. I have read all the threads about GM windlass and don't power down vs freefall but yes they say it's ok to power down etc. I can only see where it can power up or down electrically. How would you freefall if you wanted to, does that 1-1/2" nut on top release a clutch or brake or do you just lift the chain up off the Gypsy and let it spool out over the smooth section ?
Under power the chain moves freely in and out of the chain locker through that port adjacent to the windlass...what is the second access port for on the deck ? There's a hook on the bottom of the cap which allows you to pull up the chain ...?
Lastly is there any routine or annual maintenance I should be planning on..

Thanks

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[bigbill]

second cap may be for a second anchor line. i put one on my boat with the rope and chain ready to go, i also made a hook to hang the chain from so it is easy to access and attach to the second anchor when needed

[Pascal]

Yes the nut at the top will release the clutch. In a bind you can indeed pull the chain up against the rope capstan although it will scratch the capstan and you won’t be able to control the fall. Ok in 10’ of water, not so much in a 100’…

[firbanks]

Second cap on deck is definitely for anchor rhode (really more rope than chain). Mine sends rope into the stbd bow anchor locker, chain goes to port side (like yours). The "port" you mentioned next to chain gypsy where chain goes in and out is known as a hawsepipe (maybe not perfect definition but boaters will know what you mean). There are two separate clutches on the windlass - one between the upper rope drum and the chain gypsy and the second one is between the chain gypsy and the deck. They are wear items and I changed both of mine out with perfect replacement part from the factory. Torquing down on the nut on the top ensures grip or loosening allows it to slip. I have a metal bar with a socket welded onto it in one of the bow deck boxes at all times to tighten that nut if needed. I normally leave that bar on the bow next to the pulpit when at anchor if needed (but also use a chain hook and snubber to take tension off windlass and reduce noise for v-berth dwellers). Finally, make damn sure your chain size/grade and gypsy profile match. It's legit unsafe if they are not 100% matched (no injuries on this end but I some questionable retrievals before I bought a new gypsy!).

[CGHOST4]

Another suggestion, drain the gearbox oil and replace. There are 2 drain plugs on the gear box, the upper is the fill plug, the lower is the drain. Sometimes water accumulates in the gearbox, you will know right away because the oil will look like a chocolate milkshake. Replace with standard 80/90 gear oil, and fill to the upper plug.

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Caesars Ghost
1980 58' YF #472

[Scarlett]

Another tip if your windlass is slipping even with the nut tightened down you probably need news pads. Galley maid sells them. I put new ones on and my clutch still slipped a little with the nut tight. Called Galley Maid and they suggested adding a second pad, so I did but I had to buy longer screws to go through 2 pads, but that completely solved the problem.