Insulation

[Pascal]

Ang. Are you talking about removeable headliner panels like on the newer boats? I would like to know how that is done. I would like to change mine as well.

The way I've done mine is use 24" wide 1/4" ply. Foam backed headliner is stretched and staples on the hidden side within an inch of the edge. Panels are attached with heavy duty Velcro but even though the Velcro is adhesive you still need to staple it about every inch or so.

It s a big improvement over the original headliners that were stapled to the ceiling frames and can't be removed

Down in the ne'er head I m using the same system but with glossy white Formica instead of headliner and attaching the panels with mahogany battens over teh seams instead of Velcro along with a mahogany piece of trim along the edge of the room

[oscarvan]

There is sound deadening insulation, in fact has a thin layer of lead like substance in it. Some of it is self sticking.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-the...-material.html

Not cheap, heavy and never used it in an "upside down" application. But, I would consider it. Do a test patch maybe.....

[tonytrakovich]

I think the key to the insulation panels is the foil. Foil will reflect the IR back up. Shiny side up.

I saw the same demo on the window film except at the boat show. Neat stuff.

[jim rosenthal]

I use a large piece of the bubblewrap with mylar attached to it to insulate the triple windshield on the inside of my boat. It has cut down on the amount of heat that comes to the triple wind I use a large piece of the bubblewrap with mylar attached to it to insulate the triple windshield on the inside of my boat. It has cut down on the amount of heat that comes through the triple windshield by quite a bit. This stuff can't mildew either. If it were available in the thicker gauge it would probably do well for insulating the inside of the ceiling, as it would have considerable dead air space.

A film that cuts down on the amount of infrared coming through your windows would really help as well, as noted above.

[lake of the woods]

Ange,

You might want to ask Quinton (46 Chris Craft Reno) as he did a lot of research on insulating materials for his project. What about spray foam? No glue and it is made to resist mold and moisture. It can be cut and shaped once applied to properly fit the space between the ceiling supports. Just a thought.

Mark
Lake of the Woods,

[davidwigler]

The way I've done mine is use 24" wide 1/4" ply. Foam backed headliner is stretched and staples on the hidden side within an inch of the edge. Panels are attached with heavy duty Velcro but even though the Velcro is adhesive you still need to staple it about every inch m

Pascal, where did you get the foam backed headliner? Does it look like the original with holes?

[Pascal]

Got it from sailrite.com They have jsut about everything you need for soft goods incl sunbrella, vinyl, and every but and piece needed.

No, it s not the old perforated stuff... It s vinyl glued to a thin foam layer.

I have some pics of it on this Fb public album

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=26307af31d

[1jparker]

[QUOTE=Angela;281465]Thanks for the responses. Good point about the windows being the biggest source of heat, and I agree. I have been eyeing a new film for the windows that reflects heat. Home Depot had a contractor demonstrating this film. They put a heat lamp on one side of the glass, and you put your hand on the other side of the glass. It was very impressive. Hardly any heat at all on the glass with the film, yet the plain piece of glass let a lot of heat through. My window film is shot and ready to be replaced anyway.

Ang,
How are you replacing the window film? Or are you replacing the entire window? Some of our film is shot too and I would love to know how anyone is removing it.

[bobk]

[QUOTE=1jparker;281545]

Thanks for the responses. Good point about the windows being the biggest source of heat, and I agree. I have been eyeing a new film for the windows that reflects heat. Home Depot had a contractor demonstrating this film. They put a heat lamp on one side of the glass, and you put your hand on the other side of the glass. It was very impressive. Hardly any heat at all on the glass with the film, yet the plain piece of glass let a lot of heat through. My window film is shot and ready to be replaced anyway.

Ang,
How are you replacing the window film? Or are you replacing the entire window? Some of our film is shot too and I would love to know how anyone is removing it.

What does the film look like? It sounds like a great idea, but I don't think I'd be happy with a shiny mirror-like window.

Bobk

[q240z]

I wrote up a summary of my investigation into insulation for my Chris Craft Roamer project. Fiberglass is good in houses, but I wouldn't recommend it in a boat. If a leak ever develops or if condensation happens anywhere around fiberglass, you'll never get the water out of it [don't ask how I know...]. Foam insulation board seems like a good idea, unless you're in an area where it gets cold. Unless you completely, hermetically seal the boards when you install them, condensation can form above the boards and start a mold problem [don't ask how I know...].

I went with spray foam insulation against the hull, cabin top, decks, etc., and I'm gluing Buffalo Batts nonwoven poly fabric to the back of all the wooden panels I'm installing. Buffalo Batts provided the biggest bang for the buck, and the material doesn't absorb water or itch like fiberglass. The full write up is here: https://1969chriscraftroamer46.wordp...it-insulation/

You can see the Buffalo Batts here: https://1969chriscraftroamer46.wordp...ion-follow-up/