Sanitary hose replacement - Mission Impossible

[(Nobody You Know)]

Re my 1988 40' DDMY: Decided to upgrade ancient and original head system before old age and failure causes the nastiest mess imaginable.
We are in the process of removing the old Sea Land pump motors and updating with new Seacoast "swish" vacuflush systems (as I understand it Seacoast aquired Sealand)
At this point we (the technician) is 90% complete with the job. The hold up is removal and replacement of the sanitary hose that attaches to the forward toilet, runs aft in a tight corner along with multiple wiring and caulking. No can get to!
Have any of you boat owners of the same vintage had better success than I?
Responses are most appreciative!
Capt'n Bil

[Bob Bradley]

Obviously not the same boat, but on my '79 43C I ran into the same problem. My only solution was to find an alternate route thru a cabinet and bore a couple new holes. I then ran the hose thru the lower section of the cabinet under the vberth sink. I even had to leave a 2' piece of the old hose in place, as I simply could not remove it without taking a sawzall to the boat.

[bobk]

Obviously not the same boat, but on my '79 43C I ran into the same problem. My only solution was to find an alternate route thru a cabinet and bore a couple new holes. I then ran the hose thru the lower section of the cabinet under the vberth sink. I even had to leave a 2' piece of the old hose in place, as I simply could not remove it without taking a sawzall to the boat.

I had to do the same with one piece of hose. Remember to plug the old hose.

Bobk

[magnawake]

I changed mine out a couple years ago and couldn't reach the straps holding the old hose in place under the galley stairs. We had to cut an access and go for it. I could tell it hasn't been touched since factory installation.

[Dan Mapes]

I updated the pumps years ago. The only difference (IMHO) is that they went to worm/bevel gears instead of straight cut gears in the same plane. The new ones are much more quiet as a result. All of the hose on the boat is original still. We have one kink that could lead to trouble and that is where it bends around the stove enclosure with a 90. I have PVC parts and the special hose adapters in case that plugs.

[Beckytek]

I have the same boat and the same problem 11 years ago when I changed the hosing. There are 2 hose clamps that have to be removed before you can change the hose. One is under the sink in the head and the other is under the shower seat. I cut access holes in both places to remove the clamps and install new hose. I did not put new clamps on the new hose. I used clear acrylic 1/16" Thick, painted the same color as the surround, on the back, to cover the holes. Good luck.Hose replacement 006.jpgHose replacement 009.jpgHose replacement 004.jpg

[Bob Bradley]

I think that when they build Hatterases, the process goes something like this:

Mold the hull

Tab in the structural members

Bore the structural members and run the sanitary hose

Caulk the living snot out of both sides of the holes that the hose runs thru

Install copious straps and clamps on the hose, and do so randomly and liberally, so the hose can't escape

Build the rest of the boat.

[bobk]

I think that when they build Hatterases, the process goes something like this:

Mold the hull

Tab in the structural members

Bore the structural members and run the sanitary hose

Caulk the living snot out of both sides of the holes that the hose runs thru

Install copious straps and clamps on the hose, and do so randomly and liberally, so the hose can't escape

Build the rest of the boat.

X2, but I sure wish they did the same thing for the holes in the fore deck and pulpit areas.

Bobk

Bobk

[magnawake]

Dont even talk about the pulpit !!!! Aaggghhhhh

[roundIII]

I have the same boat and did the exact same thing as Beckytek. Covered the new access holes with starboard of similar ( almost exactly) color.

RR