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Thread: Flooring Job

  1. #1

    Flooring Job

    Well...while I was waiting for my finishing job to cure/dry I started ripping up the old carpet in my 85 32sf. Amazing how much history you can get by ripping up a floor. Found out the carpet was replaced three times since new because the installers didn't cleanup the remanents left over from the old carpet before they installed the new.

    I posted about this before but just got around to doing the work. I'm down to the bare plywood. Removed the carpet, padding and staples...then vacuumed. I remember someone saying something about possibly coating the wood to encapsolate it so that water damage from spills ect is minimized. Anyone have a recommendation for what to use? Anything besides fiberglass resin?

    Also, I'm deciding on what to put back down, be it capet or something else. Anything new or different that you can recommend would be great.

    Thanks!

  2. #2

    Re: Flooring Job

    Start with Clear Penetrating Sealing Epoxy. It's a thin epoxy that works similarly to GitRot through capillary action. The guy I buy mine from is called the Rot Doctor and he is a great help. http://www.rotdoctor.com/test/plywood/plywood.html
    From there, I'd finish it off with an epoxy resin. A quick bit of prevention is a good thing...

    CMP

  3. Flooring Job

    Any sealant will keep out most moisture and dirt. Paint is fine.

    Nylon rugs are water repellent and durable and easily changed when they become dirty or worn and no longer look good. Prefinished flooring ala Home Depot or Lowes is a good alternative, but area rugs on these tend to slip especially in a seaway with furniture. Don't glue anything down; for rugs, a few staples will do. Cut hatch openings larger than the hatches to eliminate dirt and noise infiltration. A rug pad will reduce noise from the engine room.

    The photo of my pre finished galley floor from Lowes is photo number 10 at
    http://groups.msn.com/TrawlerMV/lazydays.msnw?Page=1
    Last edited by REBrueckner; 01-17-2006 at 03:39 PM.

  4. Re: Flooring Job

    I replaced my own salon carpet.

    Removed the old, took it home.

    Used it for a pattern to cut the new, leaving a bit oversize.

    Go to boat, place, trim to fit.

    End of job. Total time, a couple of hours.

    Total price, using a piece of commercial remnant carpeting (very close pile and tough stuff) plus NEW closed-cell padding? About $200.

    Price to have someone come do it? About five times that - or more.

  5. #5

    Re: Flooring Job

    It's pricey, but I'm a fan of teak and holly, or other hardwoods. They're a lot easier to maintain and they nicely compliment those fine Hatt interiors. There's also been a number of threads on Amtico synthetic materials. MikeP did an install and posted quite a bit of info on it. Just search "Amtico" and you'll find them. Good luck.
    Last edited by Avenger; 08-03-2006 at 12:56 PM. Reason: updated MikeP's screenname

  6. #6

    Re: Flooring Job

    I've got my salon carpet pulled up right now while having some work in the engine room. The plywood underneath looks fine but I figure that I'd use the epoxy sealer from the rotdoctor web site to prepare the floors.

    This is a job I can rationalize while the furniture and carpet are removed and the wood looks OK. Better now when access is easy and it doesn't look like a problem.
    Timothy Rogers
    1981 56' FDMY
    "Fun@Sea.Calm"

  7. #7

    Re: Flooring Job

    I'm definitely going to seal my plywood floor. Didn't see any rot at this point...everything was solid. For my application...a sportfish, wouldn't a wood floor be a bit on the slippery side? It works in some of your larger MYs because you have nice large living room areas ect, but my area isn't large and the area that would be wooden if I chose wood is the major trafficing area to the v-berth, bathroom and out of the boat ect. When getting into the rough stuff I could see someone flying across the inside of the boat on the new floor.

    Explain how a wooden floor would work for me....they sure do look nice!...but I think I may be stuck with carpet.

  8. #8

    Re: Flooring Job

    I would coat it with west system remember anything you put on top of what you use is only as strong as the base. So if you use a wood sealer then want to epoxy a wood floor down later the weak link is the wood sealer.
    Dan
    End Of The Line II
    1967 34C

    EOTL II Rebuild Web Page

    ><(((º>´¯`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸><((((º>`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸><(( (( º>¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸¸><(((º>

  9. #9

    Re: Flooring Job

    I used Carpet Tiles bought at Home Depot when I replaced the carpet in my 36 Hatt. The tiles are patterned on one edge and are inegrated with pad and carpet. There is a semi sticky backing that once placed on floor and locked in with all other pieces does not move under the harshest conditions. When you need to access the engine room just remove the two or three pieces and your in. When finished just pop back in and smooth the edges with your hand and you again have a seamless piece of carpet. You'll be amazed. The best part is when your guests spill wine at a cocktail party you simply replace the piece stained if it does not clean up satisfactorily. Couldn't be easier. BTW, I don't work at Home Depot or for the Tile Carpet folks either.

  10. #10

    Re: Flooring Job

    Quote Originally Posted by Jackman
    For my application...a sportfish, wouldn't a wood floor be a bit on the slippery side? It works in some of your larger MYs because you have nice large living room areas ect, but my area isn't large and the area that would be wooden if I chose wood is the major trafficing area to the v-berth, bathroom and out of the boat ect. When getting into the rough stuff I could see someone flying across the inside of the boat on the new floor.

    Explain how a wooden floor would work for me....they sure do look nice!...but I think I may be stuck with carpet.
    I think it's all in the finish. Plenty of sportfish, convertibles etc. have teak decking in the cockpits. Mine does. If a wet cockpit covered in fish blood and slime isn't deadly I think your cabin sole should be fine. Just don't sand it perfectly smooth and finish with high gloss urethane and don't walk around in your socks. The big benefit of the hardwoods is that they're much easier to clean. If you fish, sooner or later somebody's going to track fish guts into your boat. (Geez, this post is starting to get gross) Do you want to wipe it up or shampoo it out?

    Another benefit IMHO is easy access. I can only say from my experience but in my 36C if you want to get any hatches besides the center ones open you have to roll up carpet. Granted, it's probably not the best carpet install, but that's how the boat came. Got wood? Just pick up the hatch.

    Pascoe's book "Mid Size Power Boats" had some mention of the benefits of wood also, but I don't have my copy handy. I'll see if I can find the info when I get home.

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