1980's vintage tank level guages

[jim rosenthal]

FINALLY got this out. No amount of any thread lubricant etc would budge it. Today Dave from Akyla came over with a Dremel tool and cut the gauge apart to the point where we could peel it out of the threaded socket. The bushing glassed into the tank was intact (Dave's surgical skills in evidence), and the new gauge threaded in with no trouble. I was also able to wetvac all the old water and pink AF out of the tank. Fortunately this is a FRP tank so if I can get it clean and wash it out regularly it should be quite usable. Next step is to revise the tank plumbing and make sure the FW pump works. What came out of the tank wasn't pretty, let me only say.

The gauge has been broken for the entire time I have owned Blue Note. What a relief to finally have it out of there and a functional one in.

[MikeP]

I have yet to get the fuel gauges out - and that's with the 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar. They seem to work just fine but I would like to remove them to check them out and also be sure they are the correct length for the tank. The forward gauge showed nearly empty but only 187 gal of fuel filled it - the tank capacity is around 350 Gal so 150+ gal remaining shouldn't show empty. But better that than the opposite!

Yeah, I've tried all the solvents, incl heat and two people on the breaker bar. Perhaps it's time for the dremel but I don't want to ruin it, I just want to check it!

The water tank gauges came out pretty easy but they had fallen apart so I got 2 new ones from Sams. I want to pull the fuel G's to ensure they aren't about ready to fall apart like the water Gs did.

[jim rosenthal]

What I found was that the water tank gauge seemed to have been put in with sealant of some kind and would not budge. Possibly heating it would have helped but the galley floor etc was so close I did not want to risk it. Plus it didn't work so destroying it to get it out was the simplest option. It might be simpler just to resign yourself to that and cut it out as we did. At least you will know the new gauges will work.

Do not heat your fuel tank gauges to get them out unless your life insurance is fully paid up and you are ready to shuffle off to Buffalo, or even further. Plus the owners of the adjacent boats to yours will pursue you to your final destination and beyond when your boat blows up. If you decide to do this, make sure your tray tables are upright and fully locked as you will be taking off shortly.

[MikeP]

Aw c'mon Jim - you drive British cars and ride Brit bikes! They leak gas and oil everywhere, have randomly operating electrical systems and rotten brakes! Now THAT's dangerous!

I don't think using an elec heat gun on the large bronze fitting on the diesel fuel tank is even close.

Oxy-acetelene? Now that's a different story


In any case, I'm determine to get them out of there. I'm really interested in the earlier suggestion that you just need something to tap on the gauge. Tap on it with what? A 10lb sledge?

[Nonchalant1]

My 1972 48 YF has a large hex nut with a recessed center on top of the water tank and the appearance of threads on the outside. It seems to be aluminum; it is NOT bronze. It has a small hole in the center with a plastic cylindrical sight gauge, maybe three inches high and 3/4 inch diameter, within that screws in. No mechanism is vuisible. When I tied to remove the large hex nut with a stilson wrench it began to crush...so that was the end of my effort to get in a water tank gauge. What should I try next??

Go to Sears and get the right size hex wrench to fit the nut. That's what I did. I think mine was 2.5 in. and cost $22.

Doug

[jim rosenthal]

It IS 2.5"- mine was octagonal, in some weird size and no one makes octagonal sockets for any size drive. I did try to get a tool made up- no one would do it. (who can blame them?). The new one is hexagonal. You may very well be able to get it out with a 2.5" hex socket and 3/4" or 1" breaker bar. The relief when it comes out is profound.

Mike, you go ahead and heat the gauge which is immersed in diesel fuel, with a heat gun, if you want to. Personally I think you will blow yourself up but I have been wrong before. Usually when I am wrong someone does not do too well. It will be interesting to be wrong and have things turn out well.

Of course, I may be RIGHT about this not being a good idea, in which case I will certainly be sorry. Plus, it will be a waste of a perfectly good Hatteras 53 MY.

Seriously, if you do that you are braver than I am. Drive it down here and I will Dremel them out for you. I will even buy you and Loretta dinner in Naptown.

[SKYCHENEY]

I had to use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4ft long pipe on the end of it to get enough leverage to get all of my holding tank fittings out. Even with all of that, I still had to brace myself and use both feet on the bar to get it started. Don't be afraid of using too much force. I think the socket would break or slip off before you could hurt the tank.

[Ernie Piotrowski]

Replaced the water tank internal float couple of years ago. Only lasted 23 years! Sam's supplied float apparatus but went to ACE hardware and rented the correct size wrench rather than buy. It does take a lot of effort to unscrew but will do using a breaker bar. Once out, replacement is a snap.