Help painting the hull mistake? Hubby might kill me that I'm taking on too much!

[1966 Contagious]

Here is a little bit of my back ground I have a AA Degree in cabinetry Carpenrty, my email is toolmom, I worked once on making some exterior wood parts for a Chris Craft boat and have just about remodeled our whole house that's 2,000 sqft pretty much by myself. The owner of the boat had them redone about 5 years ago with some sort of mahagony I don't know but it's really hard wood might even be Honduran if it is even We had a great surveyor look it over before we bought it and he thought just the same sand paint prime the bad areas. I don't know if it had 1 or 2 part on the boat. I can ask the owner today.
I don't for see any rot yet I've looked hard at the rail just a few areas to epoxy and sand, paint and prime. I plan to take the screws out of the rub rail and clear calk the holes then put in new screws. I'm very good at calking probably an expert by now I'll try to post pictures. I want to spot paint the hull areas I have epoxyd, sand prime the rub rails and fix a few bad port holes and paint the bottom stripe.

[Cricket]

Our original rails were made from some super hard laminated mahogany also. Removing them was interesting as 1 side came off easy and the other was extremely difficult, of course we started on the easy side without knowing the surprise waiting for us. Clear silicone will end up getting black so we always use white caulks, not a big fan of any silicone caulks for outdoor boat stuff. Also, don't forget to mark the stainless rails as the holes might not line up piece to piece, learned this the hard way. Sucks that the PO didn't take the extra step of epoxy coating the rails while they were raw.

[scallywag]

I concur on the use of 2 part paint. I prefer Alexseal after just painting my 70' MY with it, but Awlgrip, Imron, etc... all good options. If you get a bad fininsh in spots like orange peel or drips and sags just wet sand and buff the areas if you use Alexseal, AwlCraft 2000, and I think Imron. Having the option to repair without reshooting makes me less nervous. With old school Awlgrip you don't have that luxury.

95% of the work is the prep. Took me and three other guys 3 months and only 3 days of it was actually painting the topcoat. Not sure why they call it painting when all the work is sanding?

You're fine removing the wax after sanding the spots although it is much better to do it before hand. Just put way more elbow grease into it. Also spray it with water afterward and make sure there aren't spots repeling water.

Good luck on your project! The only thing better than having a gleaming new paint job on your pride and joy is being able to fold your arms and say to yourself "I did that."

[rsmith]

The wood rails are a huge problem on these old 50's while it kind f gives you a sacrificial buffer point rot and cracking is always a problem. I've replaced most of mine with IPE and epoxyed it but there is still a coefficient of expansion difference that causes cracking at the hull joints. Interestingly enough the 69 50 used the aluminum rails that the series 1 45 had. From what I saw the extra weight of the 50 would crush the aluminum in a hard landing. You need to strip them and start from scratch

[Cricket]

Scott, the vinyl rails we replaced the wood with are solid all the way through except for the 1/8th inch caulk cut out on the back. Don't tell anybody but I may have whacked a few pilings pretty hard over the last 29 years. Think it came from Barbour Plastics in Mass in either 16' or 20' lengths, last time I looked didn't see the profile on their www anymore. Rail profile doesn't stick out as far and isn't quite as tall as the original, has served us well and holds paint even better, was easy to install since the boat has shoe box hull deck joint.

[jim rosenthal]

Use marine caulking. Don't use anything you get from HD or Lowe's. Stick to 3M or Sikaflex. And don't use 5200 unless you are willing to use a small nuclear device to get the pieces apart if you ever have to. 4200 is fine. I don't think there is any place for silicone caulking on a boat, unless maybe in the shower?

[rsmith]

I'd like to see a pic if you have it. My lower rails are pretty old and are going to be ready soon.

[rsmith]

This was after the 2x12 fender boards chewed through.

[jim rosenthal]

That'll buff out.

[1966 Contagious]

IMG_2516.jpgIMG_2523.jpg
a little of my 4ooo marine clalking. in the first picture Im in the process of working on the other I will post another after I paint it.