prop puller

[Bill Allen]

I'm looking for a prop puller for my own use both underwater and on land. New used or just what to avoid or a good place to buy one. Looking to remov e four blade 24 to 26 inch diameter wheels. Thanks Bill

[Genesis]

Do not pull and replace wheels underwater EXCEPT in DIRE emergency.

The reason is that you CANNOT properly lap a prop and shaft in the water. It is flatly impossible. I'm a VERY competent diver and I won't do it on my own boat - I don't want to end up with a broken shaft, which is exactly what you're asking for if you do this in-water. I also won't do it for friends either, and I get asked ALL THE TIME. I explain to them why its stupid - some find someone else who will do it (usually for a price), some listen to me. A couple have found out the hard way why its a bad idea.

If I need to pull wheels the boat comes out. It costs me money, but how much does it cost to replace a busted shaft and lost wheel?

It might not happen to you, but if it does you lose two very expensive pieces of metal at best, and may do significant damage to the running gear or hull at worst (depending on what, if anything, the wheel hits as it departs)

[Freestyle]

I replaced both props in water a year ago. ( I listen to advice but sometimes my bank account and time concerns guide the way.) Since then I have cruised about 450 hours (fun year).

I have a haul for bottom work coming up. Do you think I should have them pull the props and re-set them? Or, given the amount of use, should I consider myself lucky, leave them alone, and promise never to pull them underwater again?

Bruce

[Genesis]

I'd do it right while you're out.... but that's me.

[SKYCHENEY]

Dedicated prop-pullers are expensive. When I just pulled my 28" four blades, I used a large two-arm gear puller that we had in the shop. It worked great with just a little heat applied to key side of the hub.

[Capten]

I'm looking for a prop puller for my own use both underwater and on land. New used or just what to avoid or a good place to buy one. Looking to remov e four blade 24 to 26 inch diameter wheels. Thanks Bill

Bill,

Consider a tool called the "PropSmith". I love mine. http://www.mindspring.com/~wilsoncross/

Very compact and works well both out of thr water and, in an emergency, in the water. Works great for removing and re-installing. The substantial force that is generated when "pushing" the prop onto the shaft may even help with the lapping issues that have been discussed.

I believe these tools are now standard equipment on many new boats such as Hatteras and Viking. You will need to have your wheel hubs tap and died in order to use the kit.

Good luck.

[Nonchalant1]

Do not pull and replace wheels underwater EXCEPT in DIRE emergency.

The reason is that you CANNOT properly lap a prop and shaft in the water. It is flatly impossible. I'm a VERY competent diver and I won't do it on my own boat - I don't want to end up with a broken shaft, which is exactly what you're asking for if you do this in-water. I also won't do it for friends either, and I get asked ALL THE TIME. I explain to them why its stupid - some find someone else who will do it (usually for a price), some listen to me. A couple have found out the hard way why its a bad idea.

If I need to pull wheels the boat comes out. It costs me money, but how much does it cost to replace a busted shaft and lost wheel?

It might not happen to you, but if it does you lose two very expensive pieces of metal at best, and may do significant damage to the running gear or hull at worst (depending on what, if anything, the wheel hits as it departs)

Karl,

If props were properly lapped before, do they need to be relapped every time they come off the shafts?

Doug

[SKYCHENEY]

Since it really is not difficult to check the contact with the shaft, I think that I would do it every time. If you find it is okay, then just tighten it up, But if it is not making good contact, then "re-lap" it. I bought the bluing at CarQuest for $3 and the guy gave me a tube of valve grinding paste. Not much expense to do it right.

[Genesis]

Karl,

If props were properly lapped before, do they need to be relapped every time they come off the shafts?

Doug

Yes. They will not seat EXACTLY where they were before.

[Bob Bradley]

Believe Genesis. I sheared off a 2" shaft this past summer as what I believe is a direct result of having replaced the props in the water the previous summer. A magnaflux test revealed that the second shaft was also starting to go. This was not an inexpensive lesson.

With respect to the prop puller, I had a pulling kit cut from 3/8" steel stock by a local firm, for about $50. They cut 3 circular pieces, each about 10" in diameter, then aligned four 5/8" holes for in each piece. Next cut a "U" channel in one, bored a 2.25" hole in the second, and left the third intact. Threaded rod, nuts and washers complete the setup.

I use the U-channel piece along with the non-holed piece to pull the props, and the U-channel piece with the holed piece to replace them. They're a little heavy, but work very well.
Bob