GE appliances

[Boatsb]

Microwave does not use 240. You lost one leg of the 240 some where.

Makes sense.

I bet the control board in the stovetop uses 1 leg and neutral.

[cb48lrc]

The GE Advantiun we installed is a 240v unit. Per the installation manual "240 V Models: The wall outlet receptacle recommended for this appliance is NEMA #14–30R and accepts the four-prong grounded plug of this appliance." When the electrician wired both units(oven and cooktop) he added a junction box connecting the feed wires and cooktop and a wall outlet for the oven. He did this by crimping and soldering in the junction box. I can't see how the oven gets power but not the cooktop.

[Angela]

I've only had an issue once, and it arose when the guy got there and refused to come on board. The guy kept telling me "I don't work on boats. You need a marine person to do this." Understand that the broken appliance had nothing to do with how it was installed on the boat - it had something wrong with it internally that would not permit it to run - didn't matter whether it was plugged into the boat, or into an outlet in the house.

I escalated the issue up the food chain ladder and he was quickly sent back to the boat in full apology mode. So long as you are not asking them to work on anything beyond their appliance, it should not be an issue, and don't let them get away with trying to make it one. I never tell them upfront that it's a boat so they don't have time to think about it and start getting their panties in a wad - I live in a gated community as far as they are concerned and they can call me when they get to the parking lot.

As it turns out, my problem described above was a manufacturing defect and they took the dishwasher back and a replacement was ordered.

[cb48lrc]

The plot thickens! GE service center could not find anyone that would come to the boat. We only had one choice here in Brunswick, GA. So I was going to pull the unit out and take it to them. Before I went to all the trouble I was confirming that I had 240v going to it. I opened the junction box, and pushed my meter leads into the heat shrink. Sure enough I had 240v going to the cook top. I then turned on the cook top and to my total surprise it worked. With the breaker off I pushed and pulled on the wires. No loose connection. I then cut off the heat shrink to do a visual inspection. The feed wires are connected to the cook top and oven using copper crimp sleeve and soldered then sealed with heat shrink. GE has confirmed that the warranty is good as long as the nit is installed correctly. I have confirmed with GE that if the problem shows up again that they will fix it.
Not knowing what is going on bothers the H out of me. I called the appliance store I purchased it from, my thought is that since it has electronic controls it may not like to be cycled on and off. They are going to talk to the tech and let me know, but for now we can fry the eggs.

[SeaEric]

This is good news all around. I'm glad that it's working again. I'm also pleased that the GE folks might cooperate. I just recently ordered and new refrigerator/freezer for my 41TC that is a GE product. I finally made the decision to replace the original 1966 Frigidaire - which still works fine. I just want a modern more efficient unit with better insulation and a separate freezer.

[saltshaker]

... I finally made the decision to replace the original 1966 Frigidaire - which still works fine...

I guess that's the definition of a durable good

[SeaEric]

To be fair - the owner before me had it completely rebuilt with a new compressor.

[rsmith]

I would be really worried that you moved wires and it started working. Somewhere I remember soldering crimp terminals is a big no no!

[rsmith]

This was the last guy that soldered crimp terminals

[jim rosenthal]

Which GE unit, Eric? The original was in a lot of Hatteras yachts, it would be useful to know what the replacement is. Does it fit directly, or does the fridge opening have to be reworked to install it?