Galley Maid Windlass removal

[Triskele]

I think I went to HD and picked one that left room. Maybe a couple of inches extra. If it is longer it may actually be easier to work with. I'm up in NYS now but I have the pipe still. When we get back to Ft Myers Sunday I can check.

Dan...went to Ace and picked up a 6" piece of 1 1/2" (I.D) pipe that was pre-threaded on both ends. Added a cap and merchant couple and left me with about 2" of clearance above my spindle. Thinking that should be sufficient to get the job done. Also, won't have to grind the couple. Mine came to 2 3/16" (O.D.). A perfect fit. Tomorrow will be the moment of truth. Wish me luck. Thanks for getting back with me. Appreciate your assistance. Especially being out of town and all. Safe travels.

[bobk]

I am willing to bet the motor is not going to be an issue. Ours suffered a severely corroded case or gear box. The motor was squeaky clean. Rick hooked us up with a new box and took all of the innards over to it.

Mine was corroded too. When I bought the boat I assumed it was because of the salty water that enters with the chain. As it turned out it was due to leakage around the windlass. That leak led to the deck and pulpit rot that had to be repaired. If you see corrosion, you probably need to check the core in the foredeck and pulpit. Don't put it off or the job will get bigger.

Bobk

[Fair Well]

Dan...went to Ace and picked up a 6" piece of 1 1/2" (I.D) pipe that was pre-threaded on both ends. Added a cap and merchant couple and left me with about 2" of clearance above my spindle. Thinking that should be sufficient to get the job done. Also, won't have to grind the couple. Mine came to 2 3/16" (O.D.). A perfect fit. Tomorrow will be the moment of truth. Wish me luck. Thanks for getting back with me. Appreciate your assistance. Especially being out of town and all. Safe travels.

May be to late for this, but this is how I removed my windlass. before you start beating the hell out of it take out two bolts and replace with 36" all-thread and tighten up to about 1" of free play up and down movement. Remove the rest of the bolts and let the beating begin. When it falls the 1" to rest on all-thread just loosen all-thread until the windlass rest on the locker divider or locker floor. I put a strap to assist in getting it out of the locker with help from above. Sorry pic is out of focus but you get the idea.

[Triskele]

May be to late for this, but this is how I removed my windlass. before you start beating the hell out of it take out two bolts and replace with 36" all-thread and tighten up to about 1" of free play up and down movement. Remove the rest of the bolts and let the beating begin. When it falls the 1" to rest on all-thread just loosen all-thread until the windlass rest on the locker divider or locker floor. I put a strap to assist in getting it out of the locker with help from above. Sorry pic is out of focus but you get the idea.

Wow! That is exceptionally clever! I ended up tieing it off to a cleat with 1/4" nylon rope. Worked fine. Held in place when released from deck plate. Then lowered to cushions in chain locker. It's out! Unfortunately, shaft is badly pitted and brittle. Hate to think what a new one will run from GM.

[Triskele]

So with a good chunk of the balsa removed I went after the gap in the lip I left around the perimeter. I thought I had it figured out. I'd use thickened epoxy and the west system fillable tubes and a caulk gun. Right?
Wrong. First of all, a zip lock bag is not what you want to fill a tube with thick epoxy. You have to get the goo all the way in to the tube before you release it from the bag or it backs up all over. Next, by the time you get all of this together and you are ready to apply the epoxy to the crack, you find out the dispenser tube is too short to fit in to the lip and reach the crack or junction between the two layers of glass.
And then exotherm sets in and you wind up with a solidifying mass that will not come out of the caulk gun and it's HOT. It melts plastic and will leave a mark hot.

Attachment 16665

So I bagged that approach and went with the West Six10 tubes. They are expensive but at least I can move forward. The long tip worked great and I was able to jam it in tight and then sweep it smooth with a stirring stick I carved to mate up with everything. The only draw back is that the tube contains quite a bit less epoxy than you think by looking at it.

Subsequently I spoke with Team West and they suggested using 403 instead of 406 to thicken the epoxy as it allows a slower cure. For this application he said it was plenty strong enough.

Attachment 16666

Dan...in an earlier thread, you talked about using Fasco 110 as a thickened epoxy. Is there a reason why you did not choose to go forward with it for the gap in the lip? Would you recommend it for that purpose? Sounds like you had success with Six10. Is Six10 thickened?

[Dan Mapes]

I was looking for an easier method than loading the tubes myself. After one attempt at trying to load the blank tubes I gave them up. I figured Fasco would have the same drawback of having to mix it, then load the tube and hopefully squirt it where I wanted it before it kicked. When epoxy is in a thick blob it kicks faster.

Six10 is thickened and mixes as it comes out of the tube. It is pricey but it was extremely easy to use. While I felt cheated by the actual amount in each tube it was still far easier to use. Just make sure to keep the voids to a minimum so you don't need a ton of Six10. And, you cannot reuse the tips as they will have mixed epoxy in them which is probably impossible to get out. Plan your shots so you either use a whole tube or you have enough tips for small hits.

[Triskele]

I was looking for an easier method than loading the tubes myself. After one attempt at trying to load the blank tubes I gave them up. I figured Fasco would have the same drawback of having to mix it, then load the tube and hopefully squirt it where I wanted it before it kicked. When epoxy is in a thick blob it kicks faster.

Six10 is thickened and mixes as it comes out of the tube. It is pricey but it was extremely easy to use. While I felt cheated by the actual amount in each tube it was still far easier to use. Just make sure to keep the voids to a minimum so you don't need a ton of Six10. And, you cannot reuse the tips as they will have mixed epoxy in them which is probably impossible to get out. Plan your shots so you either use a whole tube or you have enough tips for small hits.

How many tubes of the Six10 do you think I will need to do about an eight foot strip?

[Dan Mapes]

That depends on how thick a bead you require. I don't know, maybe 3?