Galley Maid Windlass removal

[Dan Mapes]

Edit: This is an on going project that aims to repair balsa core rot under the pulpit.


We've been to this well many times here, and the question I have is simple. It is a model BBHH-12-5-1/4 that all of a sudden turned into a rust ball. I have a feeling this is due to all of the rough water we traversed last Spring on the Exuma Bank because well, it's a surprise.
Anyway, I have had the topside apart before to lube the spindle, and this is not a big deal. It's a rope and chain model, and it still works. It's covered with flaking rust, but it still works.

It is ugly down below in the locker, and it has to come out.

Is it possible to remove the spindle before dropping the whole deal in the locker?

I ask because we have a rope/chain divider in the anchor locker and the only way this will drop low enough to allow the spindle to clear, is to remove the divider.

Jah. It's gonna suck.

[carolinacoast]

Rick Schaffrick at galley maid is the guy to help with parts and advice. He helped get ours done, and yes the divider came out. Rick's icontact info in Jupiter FL is richs08@bellsouth.net and 561. 262. 8104. Good luck.

[Dan Mapes]

We actually worked with the folks in Okeechobee where the phone numbers take you, for stove parts. All in all great help. I may go there with the windlass but that will happen after I get it out if the boat doesn't sink in the process.

[Dan Mapes]

The anchor line is out, I will leave the chain in place. The divider came out fine so tomorrow looks like a day to disconnect the electrics and get a sense of how heavy this sucker is. I believe I can squeeze into the locker to drop it.

Any ideas on setting it up for removal?

I was thinking a board across the rails with a line to the spindle to hold it in place until it is safe to drop it.

[Spellbound]

Years ago Genesis posted a thread on Windlass removal and soft decking around pulpit/windlass. I took out the divider, followed his instructions, mine came out rather easy and yes the unit was full of rust & heavy. Try searching for it as the process is spelled out ----- good luck.

[bobk]

Rick took mine out a few years ago to install a 'down' thrust bearing. He dropped it into the starboard compartment of the anchor locker by himself. They are heavy.

Bobk

[z28jimi]

Any ideas on setting it up for removal?

I was thinking a board across the rails with a line to the spindle to hold it in place until it is safe to drop it.

Dan,
What you are describing is what I used to get my Ideal windlass out. You can see the arrangement I used here.
http://twocaptains.wordpress.com/201...-magic-carpet/
The turnbuckle allowed me to lower it in stages, to a platform I set up in the anchor locker.
Good luck.

[Dan Mapes]

The topside gear is off, and PB blaster has been applied. The heavy cables are off I still have the temperature sensor lines to remove.

From what I see, once the circlip is out, it looks like the spindle rides in a brass/bronze pushing that is pressed into the vertical winch tube. Hence the need for a 2 1/4 OD pipe. maybe an 1 1/2+ ID pipe with a coupler on the end will be wide enough to land on the vertical tube and not the bushing.

[Dan Mapes]

I spoke with Rick Schaffrick at GM today to start the ball rolling with regard to prices. He basically echoed everything I have read here, but added that the motor should come off first because this will lighten it all up by about 30 pounds.

He also pointed out that in all of the times he has removed these, only one has fallen out without the mallet.

[Maynard Rupp]

Ours took much brute force to remove. They used a caulk much like 5200 and we had an awful time breaking that stuff loose. I removed all the bolts and put a 6' steel bar through the door opening and caught it somewhere on the winch. We were able to get small rotational movement. Further work with the bar finally allowed me to lower the winch out. don't worry about dropping it. That never happened and it fought with us all the way out. Do remove he motor first.