1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 refit

[SEVEN]

the most completely done room is the v-berth head. I suspect the v-berth will be the first one done. Before and after would be tough, since only the aft salon bulkhead is original on the interior. If you haven't checked out the first posts, they're kind of entertaining: https://1969chriscraftroamer46.wordp...-roamer-refit/

what the heck was i thinking...

😳 wow

[q240z]

lake of the woods, it's the biggest head TMC makes (available on ebay), and the Japanese 'washlets' work great. I've got them on my 1968 Commander 42, also. https://sites.google.com/site/1968ch...g-spaces/heads

All of the Vacuflush heads I've seen have a bowl that kicks up at the back. They aren't flat across the top like a traditional house toilet. The washlets need a flat top with two holes for a conventional seat. Also, they're elongated, not round. The TMC head isn't quite as elongated as the washlet, but they come pretty close.

Cheers,
Q

[q240z]

I spent a weekend insulating the back-side of the mahogany panels we just sprayed. With some of the aft stateroom cabinet pieces, it was challenging remembering which ones needed insulation and which ones didn't. Anyway, after a sticky epoxy weekend, all of the panels are insulated...they're ready to install.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Insulating Mahogany Wall Panels

Cheers,
Q

[Walter P]

Q, I probably missed something on this long thread, but what is the purpose of the insulation? Is it for sound or warmth?

Walt

[q240z]

Hey Walt. The links in the article go to the original discussion of my insulation strategy, but it comes down to keeping the boat comfortable all year round. I know a couple who had an uninsulated Marinette, and their winter heating bills were in the $700 range. I also know from my own experience going from a wooden Connie to a fiberglass Commander that the hull material and insulation or the lack thereof can have a huge impact on comfort. The fiberglass boat was drippy and humid until I got some insulation work done, and even then the heat of summer and cold in winter really telegraphs through the paneling. There'll be some minor sound attenuation, but mostly it's all about quick heat-up and cool-down, and stable temps for as long as we're onboard.

[jim rosenthal]

I spent a few years living on an aluminum boat and can vouch for it being cold, damp, noisy and drafty. Insulating the Roamer is a very good idea.

Which BB material are you using, Quentin?

[q240z]

I figured you'd chime in on the excellent heat transfer characteristics of aluminum, Jim. ;-)

The article links to the original article where I talked about the Buffalo Batt material and linked to the source for it: https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/mo...g-5-yards-.htm
It also links to my original article on insulation, which has the "bang for the buck" table, which I defined as the best R value for the cost per square foot. Buffalo Batt is woven polyester fabric. Thinsulate, by comparison, is polypropylene. Thinsulate has a better R value and basically absorbs zero water. Polyester adsorbs ~.2 to .5% water at ambient conditions, which isn't as good, but it's close enough to zero I think. At ~5x the cost, though, Thinsulate just doesn't have the bang for the buck.

[SKYCHENEY]

Would insulation between fastened panels also reduce squeaks and rattles? I know when we built the motorhome, we tried to put some ozite carpeting between bulkheads and panels so it wouldn't make noise rubbing.

[q240z]

I hadn't thought about that angle...I could see how heavier material like that ozite carpeting would dampen vibrations. But I don't think this woven fabric has the mass.

[q240z]

Finally! I got the port-side V-berth mahogany panel installed. If I do say so myself, it looks pretty good given that it was done by a weekend wood warrior!

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Port V-berth Mahogany Wall Panel

Cheers,
Q