1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 refit

[q240z]

Happy Thanksgiving everybody!

I had to upgrade from a 17-series gas-cooled TIG torch to a 9-series water-cooled one. I could justify the cost for the torch kit and stubby gas lens kit because my Miller Spoolmatic was too big and wouldn't fit in the space where I need to weld in bigger standpipes for the main engine raw water thru-hull inlets. The 17-series torch that came with my Alpha-TIG 200X is only rated for 150 amps, and I'm going to need all 200 amps from the Alpha-TIG to weld these 2" aluminum standpipes in.

But I couldn't justify the expense of a fancy new liquid TIG cooler. Even at the lower end of the price range, they're $270 and reportedly these Made In China units don't last long (especially the pumps). So I got myself a Little Giant air conditioner condensate pump, a bucket with a lid, and a few fittings and made my own cooler. Total cost: $53, including glycol antifreeze. Total assembly time: ~30 minutes.

It works great!

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: $50 Home-Made TIG Torch Cooler

Cheers,
Q

[q240z]

Well, I'm pretty much resigned to spending one last winter in this boatyard. My painter just found another line of cracks where the Interlux filler that didn't adhere to the substrate under the lower rub rail.

For several years I'd occasionally tinker with the original helm windshield opener. I repaired some broken spots in the cover for it a few years back, and I finally got it mechanically squared away. Recently I was polishing some stainless and decided to knock out the WS opener, too. It turned out real nice, so I went ahead and installed it just to get it out of the way.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Rebuilding the Helm Windshield Opener

Cheers,
Q

Before


After

[q240z]

Having proper shore power working before the boat splashes is a priority. There are all sorts of modern requirements for marine electrical systems, and none of them is cheap. Also, the original isolation transformer on my boat apparently died sometime between 1985, when it landed on Purgatory Row at the boatyard where it went to die, and 2007, when we bought the Roamer for $1.

So after weighing out all the various factors and options, I decided on Bridgeport Magnetics torroidal isolation transformers and FactoryMation miniature circuit breakers for the 50 amp D-curve main shore power disconnect/breaker. I'll write about the transformers next time. This article just covers the main breaker installation, which turned out very nicely.

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Main Breaker Install

Cheers,
Q

[q240z]

The Bridgeport Magnetics isolation transformers arrived, and they're WONDERFUL (mostly).

I now have a functioning alternating current electrical system. I've got 240VAC to the distribution panels, and there was zero smoke or drama when I powered the system up. This is almost, like, a disturbance in The Force. I thought I was destined to experience tragedy when I delved into powerful things I know not enough about, even when I follow the schematics...

Anyway, my boat doesn't hum anymore when shore power is plugged in, and the output is perfectly balanced 250/125VAC. It's astonishing!

1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing 12kva Bridgeport Magnetics Marine Pucks!

Cheers,
Q

Gettin' Egyptian


The final result

[jim rosenthal]

The old Simpson gauges are very cool- glad you were able to keep them.

Eighty pounds each? Wow.

[q240z]

They are indeed cool. But I'm having problems with the ammeters. I suspect I installed the donut current transformers backwards, because the needles wiggle when I turn on appliances but they don't show amps.

80lbs isn't that heavy. But the scaffolding and stairs move around quite a bit. I'm used to it by now, but lugging those things around threw off my balance. Better to 'get Egyptian' and slide things up slopes than to drop one and have an unfortunate mishap!

[q240z]

I've been recommissioning the AC electrical system in order, from the shore power inlet and cables, to the main breaker, to Marine Pucks. The main electrical panel was next up, including selectively activating breakers so I have power available in each space from the onboard wiring. That allowed me to stop using the extension cords I've had strung all over the boat for the last ten years.


It felt very good coiling them up and taking them home. But I'm going to have to have a garage sale for all these extension cords and other stuff I won't be needing anymore as the project winds down. lol


1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Salon Electrical Panel


Cheers,
Q

[jim rosenthal]

Q, a lot of Coast Guard boats had impressed current systems and they probably came from Engelhard. Years ago, I had a Striker 44', and the Coast Guard electrician who worked on it (I've forgotten his name and undoubtedly he's retired now) was familiar with CAPAC monitoring systems and IC systems on their bigger boats. If you can find a Coast Guard electrician they could probably help you.

I'm surprised (impressed?) that the Roamer has an IC system. The Striker had the monitoring system, but not the IC system.

[q240z]

Jim, after posting the article, a reader and fellow Roamer 46 owner sent me a PDF copy of the original CAPAC manual for the model I have on my boat! All has been revealed!

I actually did find a manual for a different model of Englhard CAPAC, and I’d planned to wire it as indicated there. It turns out that the wiring is identical, so it would have worked. But still…it’s nice to have the original manual letting me know I’m doing it right. I'll cover all of this in a forthcoming article.

I saw some literature somewhere indicating that Chris Craft made CAPAC systems standard equipment on all Roamers starting in 1965 or 1967.

[jim rosenthal]

Good for you! I'm surprised that Roamer didn't fit them as standard equipment back before CC bought them (I have the impression that Roamer was an independent before CC bought them.. correct me if mistaken)Anyway, I'm very glad you now have the manual. Life, and boating, go better with the instructions available.