55 Convertible Repower underway

[habanero]

G-Force


Last year I put a huge bait tank against the the back bulkhead. It starts from right of the engine room door all the way starboard. It works really well, and looks like it came from the factory from day 1.

Mike
"Habanero"55C

[G-FORCE]

That is a lot of HP for 2.5" shafts. You might want to look into using Auqamet 22HS. It's stronger than the 22 and may get you where you need to be. You may also be able to use a thin wall cutlas bearing and increase shaft size to 2.75"

Thanks, I.hadn't heard of HS. I'll check into it. Initial assessment is struts to narrow for thin wall cutlass.

[G-FORCE]

G-Force


Last year I put a huge bait tank against the the back bulkhead. It starts from right of the engine room door all the way starboard. It works really well, and looks like it came from the factory from day 1.

Mike
"Habanero"55C

Very nice! We don't do much live bait fishing, but I may plumb the transom fish box for a livewell.

[Boatsb]

With so much happening it's easy to lose track of some important things.

If the shafts are marginal maybe replace the stuffing boxes and struts so you can go to the right size considering everything else that is being done already it would not be that much more in the big picture. With the extra torque and HP all it takes is hitting a chunk of wood floating that could snap a shaft or worse.

[jim rosenthal]

the thinwall bearings will get you an additional .250", but they don't last as long, I think. It is q lot less expensive than new stern tubes and struts, holes to mount struts, etc etc. It's the "while you're in there"s that kill you.....

[G-FORCE]

the thinwall bearings will get you an additional .250", but they don't last as long, I think. It is q lot less expensive than new stern tubes and struts, holes to mount struts, etc etc. It's the "while you're in there"s that kill you.....

I am definitely reexamining the shaft issue. Thank you all for highlighting the importance of this.

[rsmith]

If you fish off shore, the running gear takes a lot of abuse that others dont. Fighting a big fish you can go from backing down hard to jamming it in forward and laying on the throttles when the fish turns. In the heat of battle the last thing you want to worry about is marginal running gear. You will either loose fish or break the boat, in anycase you wont be happy.

[saltshaker]

Again I would look into using new Aquamet 22HS shafts. They are harder and stronger than the standard Aquamet. 22. They should give you the extra safety factor you will need. Fortunately the Aquamet 22HS shafting is available in 2.5" or larger. Will be much easier than upping the shaft size providing you can still get an acceptable safety factor without having to go too shallow on the reduction gear.

[G-FORCE]

If you fish off shore, the running gear takes a lot of abuse that others dont. Fighting a big fish you can go from backing down hard to jamming it in forward and laying on the throttles when the fish turns. In the heat of battle the last thing you want to worry about is marginal running gear. You will either loose fish or break the boat, in anycase you wont be happy.

Great point!

[Reel Easy]

If the 22HS doesn't meet the 5 safety factor look into Temet 25. It is stronger and more corrosion resistant, just have your wallet ready, but its still less expensive than new struts and shaft logs. Its been my experience everyone is willing to save a few bucks till a shaft rings off at the taper area then everyone forgets they didn't want to spend the money to do it properly the first time, and then finger pointing begins. A shaft never breaks at a good time. Also make sure a good machine shop does the tapers and relieves the keyways that's where they like to break. In a setup on the edge of the safety factor every little thing counts, such as lapping the props to the shafts, making sure the keys are correct, etc.

Chad