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Thread: paint question

  1. #1

    paint question

    i'm going to paint the decks...the old finish is peeling in some places...i'm going to scrap and sand the surface....but what can i use to fill in the indentations where the paint is gone? thanks

  2. #2

    Re: paint question

    If you're just talking about indentations the thickness of some paint peels, I'd build it back up with primer. You're going to want to use primer on it, anyway, and it'll sand and fair back out better and easier than anything.
    -- Paul

  3. #3

    Re: paint question

    Agree, if you have paint peeling, you have had these areas repainted previously. Peeling probably because of inadequate prep work initially - not primed. So, the suggestion of build up with primer is right on. Prime, sand, and paint should be the answer as noted with previous post.

  4. #4

    Re: paint question

    The more paint, the worse the peeling is. It's always a good idea to sand down to a good finish, get rid of the peeling paint, it will continue to peel and wreck your finish. Get a good random orbital sander and a lot of sandpaper and see what happens when you start sanding. If you can't get a featheredge to the paint ( it must fair out smoothly so that you cannot see or feel an "edge") If it doesn't, than the solvent in the primer will probably raise up the edge anyway and you won't get a good looking finish.
    Start with an 80 grit and see how that attacks the paint, sometimes differant grits give you a "smoother" featheredge, so try some differant grits, 80, 120, etc. Good prep makes for a good , long lasting paint job. And, by the way it is not prime, sand and paint, it is sand, prime, sand, seal and then paint.
    Last edited by rrrestorer; 06-16-2010 at 11:13 PM. Reason: thought I should clarify

  5. #5

    Re: paint question

    Quote Originally Posted by rrrestorer View Post
    The more paint, the worse the peeling is. It's always a good idea to sand down to a good finish, get rid of the peeling paint, it will continue to peel and wreck your finish. Get a good random orbital sander and a lot of sandpaper and see what happens when you start sanding. If you can't get a featheredge to the paint ( it must fair out smoothly so that you cannot see or feel an "edge") If it doesn't, than the solvent in the primer will probably raise up the edge anyway and you won't get a good looking finish.
    Start with an 80 grit and see how that attacks the paint, sometimes differant grits give you a "smoother" featheredge, so try some differant grits, 80, 120, etc. Good prep makes for a good , long lasting paint job. And, by the way it is not prime, sand and paint, it is sand, prime, sand, seal and then paint.

    Well Said !!

    Adding more crap doesn't make things go away! I will just add when sanding down if you find cracks, crazing or bubbles you need to grind them out then fill I always use epoxy for filling.
    Dan
    End Of The Line II
    1967 34C

    EOTL II Rebuild Web Page

    ><(((º>´¯`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸><((((º>`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸><(( (( º>¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸¸><(((º>

  6. #6

    Re: paint question

    Very important:
    If you have lots of areas that are peeling, chances are that the other areas will also peel.

    The failure is due to an inadequate prep job when it was previously painted. Don't go through the whole excersise just to have your new finish fail due to what is under it.

  7. #7

    Re: paint question

    While we have such expertise available. I'm not sure if Aurora meant a regular paint finish or the non slip paint. Is it possible to sand down the non slip or must it be scraped or stripped off?

  8. #8

    Re: paint question

    i was referring to regular paint...i put non skid on the deck last season...holding up nicely. what sealant do i use after sanding, priming, sanding...then seal, then finish paint??

  9. #9

    Re: paint question

    You should normally use products from the same company whose paint you are going to use. Products from one paint company are not always compatible with another company's products. In the refinishing business these days we always stick with one company. Go with their top of the line product line, as you always pay for it in the end, whether with longevity or ease of use you pay for what you get. Don't spend all that time and energy and then have poor results.
    With a good finish you can always repair it with the same product again. Once you lay your paint down well, even if you should scratch it later, you can always sand, fetheredge it out and blend it in so that you can't tell what you fixed, if you use the same product you originally started with. You might have to use a slower reducer to burn in your paint , but results should be good, with a little practice and the buffer.

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