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  1. #21
    BEC53 Guest

    windlass brand

    Genesis,

    I'm looking at my GalleyMaid manual right now and it shows AACW as one of their model #'s. It shows it as a 600lb pull unit configured for line and chain. Maybe someone replaced the an Ideal and just left the old deck plate there. Is there a sticker on your electrical control box? Well....I guess they could have even used the Ideal controls with the new GM gearbox. Who knows???

  2. #22
    BEC53 Guest

    Oh, don't forget....

    .... to leave a nut on the end of one bolt when you whack it. You don't want that monster breaking free and crashing down in the locker .

  3. #23
    Genesis Guest

    Two things.....

    ... first, the PLATE on the MOTOR says "IDEAL". Its the one where the part number is! And it shows "CAP 600", which would be 600lbs, I presume.

    The Ideal folks confirmed that the configuration of parts above the deck makes it a Galley Maid.

    BIZARRE. Only thing I can come up with is that its a bastard child of TWO windlesses - someone took a GM gearbox and married an Ideal motor to it, although that doesn't explain the data plate on the motor.

    I'm not taking any of the nuts fully off. I'm going to back 'em off but leave them all on the carriage bolts, whack the thing, then go down in the chain locker, remove the motor (to make the gearcase lighter) and extract the rest. That assumes there isn't some really good reason (like its going to leak oil all over me) not to remove the motor first.

  4. #24
    Genesis Guest

    Request....

    Becs, if you can, do you have a fax? If so I'd love a copy of that manual at 850-897-9364.

    Thanks in advance if you've got the ability.....

  5. #25
    BEC53 Guest

    Manual

    Sure, I'll fax it in the morning from my office. And...the GM windlass uses a stub shaft which the motor mates up to. So, you don't have to worry about oil when you remove it. The gearbox is separate and sealed from the motor.

    Good luck

  6. #26
    Genesis Guest

    Thanks....

    ... that'll be a help.

    I didn't see a gasket, so I assumed the motor could be pulled without incident. Already loosened the nuts a bit and it didn't drip - glad to hear that there's not an O-ring on the collar or something that was waiting to give me a "surprise"! :rollin

  7. #27
    doc g Guest

    windlass ID

    The windlass on my 61 is apparently some sort of a "bastard child" also. The deck plate and related deck hardware clearly say IDEAL ,but the gearbox ,motor,controller are GM.When I rebuilt mine (BBHW) there were a bunch of custom (?)shims,bushings,above deck which neither company would claim as there own. Be careful when you take it apart because mine did not match either Ideal or GM for the above deck hardware. I had luckily made a diagram so when I put it back together,3 weeks later, I knew how it had to go. I would also replace the clutch plates on the chain gypsy while you are at it otherwise you may not be able to tighten the ass'y enough so the chain gypsy does'nt slip. According to both manufacturers you are supposed to back that big capstan nut off to free- spool the anchor chain out or the gearbox gets messed up as mine did. Good luck!

  8. #28
    Genesis Guest

    Yep

    I use a combination chain/line rode, and most of it is line, so I just do a "drop it" deal for sets.

    The funny thing is that the windless has both 'up' and 'down' deck switches though, and the motor is designed for both directions. Kinda odd for a 'single acting' (no power down) model.

    Oh well, I'm headed over to do the deed of whacking it now; will get a good look at what I've got once its out. I intend to pull the gearbox covers and go through it all, change the shaft seal, and clean it up while she's apart.

  9. #29
    Bob Bradley Guest

    Re: Yep

    Interesting. Mine is pinned, not keyed, so I guess I have the real "Ideal" windlass. I wish I had the stubbed link between the motor and the gearbox. I received a lovely Christening of mucky, rusty gear oil. What an ungodly mess! Fortunately I managed to confine it to the chain locker, and the chain had already been removed. If it ever had drooled into 300' of chain, I don't know what I would have done. As it was, it took a half dozen oil absorb pads and a can of Brake Kleen to clean up the mess.

    Let me know what you find inside the pulpit, as I believe I will need to replace the core in mine.
    Bob

  10. #30
    ronbecky Guest

    GM windlass

    When I bought my hatt last year the windlass didn't work and would trip the breaker when I turned it on. After banging it out as directed by a Galley Maid tech I discovered a large crack in the housing and all the oil was gone. Inside was a mass of rust. I cleaned it all out and replaced the housing and all the bearings etc. Total cost of parts was around $1000. The housing being most of it $850 or so. It works great now. The manual does say to loosen the large nut on top to drop anchor. I tried this a few times but it is a pain to have to carry this big wrench out to loosen then again to tighten to raise anchor. I even have a remote switch at the helm for operating from there. If you have to go out on deck anyway whats the purpose of having it. I just tightened the nut and use the foot switches lo lower and raise now. It doesn't seem to be a problem. The manual says the windlass is not designed to have a load on in the down direction. I don't consider dropping the chain a load.
    I used my scissors jack from my car to lower and raise the windlass. It made the job a lot easier. I removed the DC motor first for testing before I realized what was wrong with it. There is an interesting connection between the motor and gear box.It is a disc made up of layers of rubber and fabric just like the sidewall of a tire. There are 2 holes on each side for matching pins on the drive motor and gear. I have model AACW along with the manual and prints if anyone needs them.

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