Welcome to the Hatteras Owners Forum & Gallery. Sign Up or Login

Enter partial or full part description to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog (for example: breaker or gauge)
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1

    Fresh Water System

    While I'm rebuilding my 110v Galley Maid Water Pump, I thought I would throw out the idea to the gurus on this forum to revamp my freshwater system. Right now, I have freshwater hose coming from tank into a splitter and going into the 32v Galley Maid pump and the other into the 110v Galley Maid pump. Previous owner rewired with pressure switch with no low pressure cutoff. There is no way to isolate either pump and take it out to work on without disabling the entire system. Also, the pressure gauge is hooked up only to the 32v pump, but reads pressure of system even when 32v pump is turned off and only using 110v pump.

    I'd like to redo this system and make some kind of "manifold" to isolate different parts of the system for service/winterizing, etc.

    Any help would be appreciated. If you are going to be detailed, a diagram would work best as I sometimes have a hard time visualizing, especially when I'm not sitting right in front of the water system.

    Thank you.
    Larry Kaplan
    Former Owner of
    1980 60' Sportfish

  2. #2

    Re: Fresh Water System

    Seems like the simplest thing would be to install a gate valve between the splitter and each of the pumps and on the output of both pumps (4 gate valves) . This would allow you to select either pump for use and also allow you to remove the other pump with no affect on the system.
    Mike P
    San Miguel de Allende, Mexico; Kent Island MD; San Antonio TX
    1980 53MY "Brigadoon"

  3. #3

    Re: Fresh Water System

    How about starting us off with a diagram or picture of your system? Does each pump have its own accumulator tank or do they share one? I am not familiar with the GM 110v pump; is it identical to the 32v pump other than the motor?

    I have a GM 32v and a Sears Shallow Well 240v sharing a common Wel-Trol tank. I learned a lot in debugging this system (actually it is a continuos education). There was a thread here not long ago on this subject which included some pix. The solution can be pretty simple, actually. Once we learn more I can go on with some detail. It turns out "less is more".

    Another great resource is Yossi Raz at Raz Marine in Ft. Lauderdale, a guru on all things GM and pump related and a nice guy. 1-800 824 1186 or 954 525 5513. He spent a lot of time educating me and pointing me to solutions, almost like he wanted to avoid selling me something. Of course, I bought a rebuilt GM pump from him once I determined mine was totally crapped out.
    George
    Former Owner: "Incentive" 1981 56MY
    2007-2014

  4. #4

    Re: Fresh Water System

    Although the pressure gauge may be located in close proximity to the 32v pump it is in fact measuring the pressure of the system.

    All your thoughts about isolating the pumps are nice, but how often are you really expecting to have to remove the pump for service? I had the one in my 58 MY out once in 8 years. It seems you could fashion some plugs for the hoses or cap the pipes on the rare occassion you have a pump out.

  5. #5

    Re: Fresh Water System

    Larry, we have the same boat, and roughly the same pumps, so.....
    I have the pressure switches for each pump plumbed into the outlet of the respective pumps (turn on the breaker for the pump you want to run) and "Y" valves at the intakes and outlets. The pumps are in parrallel and feed a single filter bank/accumulator/boat, so the procedure is to configure the two Y valves and flip breakers to select which pump is in use. Only one pump is on line at a time, usually the 110V well pump.
    Since there are short lengths of hose making the actual manifold-to-pump(s) connections, either pump may be easily removed/isolated without losing water service (this can make the difference between a nice voyage or a nightmare of listening to complaining teenage daughters)
    "The older I get, the faster I was......."

    1979 60C "Ohana" hull# 331

  6. #6

    Re: Fresh Water System

    After speaking with Ernie at Galley Maid (as I don't have the manuals) I was able to get the rotor off so I could take the back of the pump housing off to get to the seals. I would have never guessed to "whack the end of the rotor at the same time as your other hand turns the rotor counter-clockwise". Very simple and it came off the shaft very easily afterward.

    I have two pumps, one pressure gauge, two pressure switches (no low pressure shut-offs), one well-trol pressure tank. I'd like to know where to put in y-valves/check valves to isolate two pumps because I know my next "fix" is the 32 volt pump. I want to get the system running so I have use of it, however, I want to then be able to take out the 32v pump to fix without disturbing the system. I mainly use the 110v pump.

    I can start with a clean slate and work from there. Thank you for your help.
    Larry Kaplan
    Former Owner of
    1980 60' Sportfish

  7. #7

    Re: Fresh Water System

    It doesn't need to be complicated.

    You need a check valve on the input of each pump. You can put a gate valve on the output of each pump. (just remember to open it up before operating!) Their input and outputs can be fed off simple T fittings. The pressure switch for the diaphragm 32v (which should be of the high/low cutout type) should be mounted close to the Wel Trol. Is the 110 Galley Made the same pump end but with a different motor? If so, it too should be downstream somewhere.

    When you remove a pump for service, simply screw a plug fitting into the end of it's check valve. I have lived the exact movie you describe, except my AC240v pump is a shallow well, non-diaphram type so it's pressure switch is mounted right at it. My 32v Galley Maid's pressure switch chattered until it was moved up by the Wel Trol and away from it's old position where the little GM accumulator tank used to be.

    The guys at GM could probably walk you through this. You can see a picture I posted of my set up on a prior thread.
    George
    Former Owner: "Incentive" 1981 56MY
    2007-2014

  8. #8

    Re: Fresh Water System

    Same MR-10 Galley Maid water pump attached to two different motors. The 110v may in fact be a 240v. I have to look at the plate on the side. Each pump has it's own pressure switch, however there is only one pressure gauge. If I isolate the pumps from each other, do I need to install a second pressure gauge for the second switch?

    I'm a bit foggy on my setup as I haven't seen it since last weekend and prior to that, it's been a few months. I'll try to get a picture to post this weekend, but I leave Sunday night for a quick trip to Minneapolis (Monday), flying to Chicago Monday Night for meetings on Tuesday, flying Tuesday night to Toronto for meetings on Wednesday.

    I"m going to rebuild the pump tonight after work. I have a few hours in the morning tomorrow when I'm going to try to put the system back together.
    Larry Kaplan
    Former Owner of
    1980 60' Sportfish

  9. #9

    Re: Fresh Water System

    Nope, just one gauge immediately downstream from both pumps.
    George
    Former Owner: "Incentive" 1981 56MY
    2007-2014

  10. #10

    Re: Fresh Water System

    Okay,
    I was down at the boat on Saturday. This is the system. Water comes out of single line from tank, splits into 2 at T. Check valve on each side of the T. Water lines run up to suction side of each pump. Discharge from 110v pump goes into T that comes off of 32v pump and then single line converts back to copper line and goes into accumulator tank with fitting off copper line going to pressure switches and pressure gauge on the end. Copper line comes out of accumulator tank and flows into system.
    Larry Kaplan
    Former Owner of
    1980 60' Sportfish

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts