It's better to have it than need it.
That's true of so many things.
Parachutes, fire extinguishers, safety cables, guns and battery power.
Your call.
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It's better to have it than need it.
That's true of so many things.
Parachutes, fire extinguishers, safety cables, guns and battery power.
Your call.
Robert I don't know how an 8V21 compares to the other two you listed but thats what I replaced mine with on my starboard bank. It is the same battery in my port/house bank and all I could find in New Orleans at the time in 8 volt. Apparently the previous owner was in same boat as they were purchased from same vendor. Anyway I was $1,093 out the door with tax for all four. That includes core credit. I havent had any issues with them cranking, etc and they seem to be what fit in original boxes as there is not much extra room.
Brian, glad you’re happy with what you’ve got—not familiar with the Renco battery. I’m pleased with the eight Deka 8V195s I have onboard. They suit my application. I can see why some might think they need more reserve if their motors don’t kick right over. I must’ve cranked one of my motors over and over two years ago when I forgot to switch tanks. That was a bunch of slow starts in short order. Seemed to have no shortage of reserve as I never tied the banks together. It sometimes comes down to my way or the highway on forums.
Something that hasn't (I think) been mentioned yet is the charger. Even the highest quality battery will meet an untimely demise with an improper charge profile, especially over charging when it get's above the 80% mark.
Middle of the road batteries will perform very close to top grade batteries if not discharged beyond 50% on a regular basis and charged appropriate to their chemistry/size.
There... back to reading "My battery is better than your battery"......:p:p:p
Please explain the charging profile that damages batteries when charged past 80%.
Batteries of the lead acid type need to be charged to 100%
I didn't SAY you shouldn't charge them past 100%. READ before you bark please. I was talking about the charging profile TO 100%.... and the damage that can be done putting high voltages/amperages in PAST 80% A quality charger with a proper voltage profile and a temp sensor to adjust same will improve and extend the performance of all batteries including the less than top quality ones.
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...d_acid_battery
Well I replaced all four 8's. When charge is maintained by the Battery Charger, the right cranks right up, the left crank is sluggish but fires up easily. If I run the boat without the charger or gen, the right cranks easily but the left is hesitant to start unless I use the parallel switch, then cranks and starts. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue? Is it typical due to the length of the cables due to right side of Starbord Engine battery bank location?Was confident enough to take the boat on an overnight this past weekend. No inverter so just tried to run with the gen off for a few hours, then start after boat sat for a bit once at destination. That is where I was able to start Right but require parallel switch for left. Once starting the gen, after it runs for a few minutes Left will start then Right without parallel switch. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Could it be new cables will help? Is this happening due to length of cables and voltage drop to left engine? Alternators are putting out per ohmmeter and gauges. Thanks for thoughts in advance.
This may or may not help. Owned my present boat for 600 hours/ 4 years. Port would occasionally just click , click before finally starting. Decided to start at the battery and clean and tighten every connection. Got to the engine block ground and that bolt was over tight. Upon removal and inspection it turned out the bolt was too long for the threaded hole. 20 some odd years later the right length bolt was installed and tightened. No further trouble. Its a process!
Are both engines started by the same battery bank or does each engine dedicated to its own bank for starting?
What is the voltage at the battery posts before you try to start a given engine. During cranking or clicking, what is the voltage at the battery posts and what is the voltage on the large power lead at the starter? If possible use the battery post negative as the “ground” for all measurements using a long wire lead back to the battery.
Check the good and bad engine for each test.
George
I want to second the suggestion to clean EVERY connection and check the cables. Take the electrical tape/shrink wrap off and LOOK. Bad/insufficient ground/corroded cables is the source of many if not most electrical issues. Nice shiny clean metal on metal terminals on corrosion free cables, properly tightened is something that will eliminate a lot of issues at no cost other than some new shrink tubing, a few hours and some wire brush hair in your fingers. :p (unless you find corroded cables and then you get to shorten them and install a few new connectors. Also not hard and a only a few bucks)