Can anyone tell me if the 1973 38' FBDC has a backing plate for the stanchion bolts, or are there nuts that I must hold in order to remove them ... certainly hope not!
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Can anyone tell me if the 1973 38' FBDC has a backing plate for the stanchion bolts, or are there nuts that I must hold in order to remove them ... certainly hope not!
I cannot say as my boat is a 83 model year . My plates are aluminum which can corrode. Back the stanchion screws out slowly, turning back and forth as you would if cutting threads . The backing plates can be cut out and replaced , but what a job . Good luck!
My understanding is there is a aluminum plate embedded in the fiberglass. I’ve taken my stanchions completely off to polish them and replace the screws with new square headed screws. I didn’t have any issues with this project. I did put a compound on the screw threads to prevent electrolyzes between the SS screws and aluminum plate that’s embedded in the toe rail.
Tefgel works well to prevent corrosion on the threads.
Thanks for the comments.
YouTube has a video showing that one can drill the bolt hole larger, then fill it with epoxy with the bolt in place. It says the bolt can then re unscrewed after it is hard and it makes a good secure fastening. May give that a try after I can remove the bolts, which may be the biggest challenge.
check back in and let me know how getting the bolts out went.
its on my list of to do's
Okay, will check back. But won't do this until warmer weather comes ... I am in the best weather in Canada (Windsor, but it still gets too cold for that kind of work). Also shrink wrapped so can't work under the wrap. Probably April or May. In the meantime working inside, changing belts, etc.
Very nice winter here so far ... only one or two degrees above or below freezing and no snow, but likely to change. We could do with a bit of global warming ...
1973 38' Hatteras FBDC. 427s with 300hp