I am getting conflicting information.
Can someone confirm the architecture of the late 70's boat with regards to engine instruments?
Voltage? Converters/Resistors? If not 32V a common ground path? (Engine block)
Thanks.
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I am getting conflicting information.
Can someone confirm the architecture of the late 70's boat with regards to engine instruments?
Voltage? Converters/Resistors? If not 32V a common ground path? (Engine block)
Thanks.
Being a late 70’s boat, why wouldn’t you just put a meter on them given the 40 plus years and potential of multiple owner modifications?Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarvan
The instruments are 12v and fed by Newmar 32v to 12v converters. Both the flybridge and helm (each has their own set of converters). My boat has three Newmar units in each console. They are enough to run the instruments and maybe an old depth gauge. For everything else that is 12v I use the generator starting battery. The Newmar units also have their own in-line fuses, and a breaker on the DC panel.
They do seem to share a common ground with 32v, but you can confirm that easy enough with a volt meter.
Some more info...
https://www.samsmarine.com/forums/sh...digital+gauges
Exactly correct. X2Quote:
Originally Posted by Photolomy
Thank you.
Yes, I just figured that (Newmar converters) out today on my 58LRC. By accident, I grounded the 12V lead when changing a few of the incorrect 32v gauge bulbs to 24v (which seems to be the correct voltage for the lamps, not the gauges).
I measured 12v for the gauges and crawled around figuring there must be a 12v fuse somewhere nearby the gauges. Found two 32-12-3 converters. Pulled the fuse on the right one (guessing that would be the starboard gauges and found I had blown the fuse.
Here's where it gets ugly. I changed the 5am fuse to a new 5 amp fuse. when I went back to the PH, there was a curl of smoke rising from my gauges. I turned the power off and removed the "12v" lead from the bottom gauge. Powered things up and found that I had 32v at the 12v lead. Apparently the Newmar 32-12-3 converter blew out and is supplying 32v instead of 12. Of all the gauges to be the "smoked" gauge, it was me 12v floscan/tach. NOT happy.
Will call Newmar tomorrow to discuss, but I may switch to a "better" converter if anyone can recommend a more modern (reliable) converter unit.
Take heart. The tachs are Aetna, or at least they can be. Easy replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by zigzag930
Would be nice, but as this tach is a Floscan/tach combo unit - I'm thinking this will be a bit more involved ($$$).