I just had a pro tell me that he uses "Toulene" to eat op 5200. It might have been Toluall. I guess you just wet the 5200 and it softens immedietly. I never use 5200 because of its permanance. 4200 is great and can be removed.
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I just had a pro tell me that he uses "Toulene" to eat op 5200. It might have been Toluall. I guess you just wet the 5200 and it softens immedietly. I never use 5200 because of its permanance. 4200 is great and can be removed.
The Fein Multimaster is one of those tools that the longer you own it, the more uses you'll find for it. Get what fits your uses and your budget; not everyone is tool-crazy or has $300 to spend, but if you do, they are the best thing out there. Also, you can now buy the blades from other companies and they fit- the cost of the attachments used to be formidable, but I suspect Fein will get cheaper now that they have competition on the wear items such as blades and sanding discs etc.
Screw rust- look on McMaster-Carr for 326 stainless screws, or Monel screws, if you want to get fancy. Old Hatteras Yachts HAD Monel screws, until they got too expensive to use- I still find some once in a while on my boat. They last a LONG time.
5200 will cure without air ( under water ) but it is best to not submerge right away.
I am replacing my Fuller Brush portlights. I have and can remove them, but what is the preferred way to install them. 3m 4000 on the outside under the trim rings and then 4000 the trim rings?
I recently bought port lights from sams. I have yet to install them. When speaking to roger(not sure). He recommended using sikaflex to seal the port light and to attach the trim ring. I'm not sure of sikaflexes adhesive properties but I would test a piece first. You can always use 4200 or 5200 to attach the trim ring
A friend took all his ports off and replaced them with 316 SS. he heated a putty knife with a torch and slide right thru the 5200.