Rudder post packing

Found a lot of water in my bilge after a 4 hour run to get hauled out for Dorian. quite sure it is coming from the stbd. rudder post. Removed the "box" floor to get an eye on the packing nuts and found a configuration i wasn't expecting. Got out my 1 inch pile of blueprints and had prints for shafts and props but nothing about the rudders. I assume the bolts and nuts on each side of the sleeve are used to tighten down on the packing? Anyone have any experience with this style? I was expecting to find a locking type of configuration. I'll try to attach a pic.
Thanks!

Attachment 36919

Your boxes have been repacked before. The lower nuts were not installed from the factory. They make the job much easier. Remove the top nuts and use the bottom nuts to push the top part of the gland up. Loosen those nuts evenly so the gland does not cock on the way up. There is a corkscrew on a wire tool that can be used to pull the old packing out. The new packing will seem too big to fit in. Use a hammer to lightly flatten the packing material and it will fit in. Three layers go in. Tighten back down aventurine and adjust when back in the water.

Maybe model specific, but 4 layers of 1/2” packing specified on Aslan. May have to tighten down the box top to seat last layer or two. Don’t forget to offset your joints.

Thanks for the great pointers!

Looks like my old Chris Craft shaft logs. Easy to remove and tighten back. Take your time, you might have to use some heat if really stuck. Because you’ll probably only do this once in your lifetime remove all of the packing and replace with new. Don’t just add one new ring.

The little corkscrew tool breaks, at least mine did. If you can get a small L-shaped pick from a good tool supplier, that may work better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by racclarkson@gmail.com

Maybe model specific, but 4 layers of 1/2” packing specified on Aslan. May have to tighten down the box top to seat last layer or two. Don’t forget to offset your joints.

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Same specs for my 43' DCFB and I used Gortex.


Jon

When I did mine two years ago I found the best way to remove the old packing was to take a long hex head lag bolt and screw it in an inch or so and then give it a pull. It's not a fun job by any means but knowing you likely won't have to do it again is reassuring. I've always used duramax packing
http://www.duramaxmarine.com/shaft-ultrax.htm

I pulled my rudders a few weeks ago. They had a little play so I pulled out the lower bearings and pushed in new. The shafts showed a little bit of wear at the point they go through the upper plates. So I bought new upper plates from Sams and moved them up 3/4" so they ride on a different place on the shaft. New Gore 1/2" packing is ready to go back in. And I will be installing the lower nuts on the gland so it can be jacked back up in the future.

The lower nuts are a great thing! I use Gortex , works great. I also replaced the upper plates ,but I got the larger plates from 88 onward , these have five holes verses three and are larger. I got them from Sam’s . Next time I pull the rudders , I would like to have the shafts welded and machined down to remove small pitting. Has anyone done this?