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I think I saw a post here about changing the windless gear oil... so I just did... OMG! Looked like a blown head gasket! And some just plain water, and a little gear oil along with the jelly.. sent compressed air into the fill hole and watched what drained with amazement! Might have been the 1st change in 30 years! Learn something new about these things all the time.
We just changed the windlass oil in a 1978 60C. I think it was original. It was thick and dark and smelled like really old gear lube (which it was). But no water and no paste.
I would be changing that lube a few times and stay on top of it.
You may have a top seal leaking in rain water or condensation.
A hot air gun under it for several minutes may help speed up some draining, then let it drain over night. fill, run both ways for a while, heat it up and drain again over night.
Again till it's clean.
GL5 (90W) does stint a bit.
How often do you use your windlass thru the year? Maybe not enough use to keep the oil splashed around in the case to keep the rust down.
There is an o-ring that can be retrofitted to help keep the water out. Just lift off everything above the deck and install it on the tube that the driveshaft runs in, there is also a washer to cover it. If you are in Australia, for instance it all could be sourced or made locally. I also put grease all over the o-ring to help lube it and to exclude water.
I've been talking to Rick at Galley Maid. Great guy. Decided to replace the gearbox top of my BBHW, and reseal the windlass opening. The gearbox top had extensive rust. The new top incorporates the seal and the torque tube is
ow stainless. Ironically the gearbox and motor were clean. Glad these guys are still around and making parts available.
Ideal and Galley Maid still answer the phones with smiles.
Bless them and their support teams.
Got the galley maid windlass replacement part. The old one is cast iron flat surfaces and a steel tube. Cast iron and salt water don't work and play well together. The replacement is aluminum flat surfaces, and a stainless tube (painted) and new style insert bushing with O rings. Probably going to make this a winter project as boating season is upon us.
Make sure the deck is solvent. BTDT.
That's the main reason I'm putting it off until winter. There is a big spacer block and the saltwater that corroded the iron away comes in somewhere. Like all projects, im sure there will be surprises.. and I'll have time to repair any soft spots I find. On the plus side, I lifed the capstan and chain gypsy off the shaft just to see if they would be trouble... they came up freely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Mapes
That is the easy part. Getting the windlass to drop down is the obstacle. I would sound the deck around the pulpit etc.. The notion the salt got to the windlass is an indication it got to the deck balsa core as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by dottieshusband