This is an amazing piece of work, the vent tubes. Beautiful.
I have Isspro tachs, four of them, on my boat. Worked perfectly right out of the box. Isspro items in cars, too.
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This is an amazing piece of work, the vent tubes. Beautiful.
I have Isspro tachs, four of them, on my boat. Worked perfectly right out of the box. Isspro items in cars, too.
Absolutely brilliant
Thanks!
In addition to the parts Isspro provided to solve my cable drive tach issue, I've also got their Turbocator gauges for exhaust temp and boost. They're very attractive. Still have to get them installed before splash day...
October is coming up fast, but I'm checking off pre-splash priorities pretty quickly.
Making the bottom water-tight and the topsides weather-proof are my top priorities now. And with the aft stateroom vents finally installed, I was able to install the pretty mahogany panels surrounding them. Then I permanently installed 12 of the 14 portholes that have been done and awaiting installation since 2016. They look great!
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing [most of] the Portholes
Cheers,
Q
https://1969chriscraftroamer46.files...9/dsc00222.jpg
https://1969chriscraftroamer46.files...9/dsc00323.jpg
Closing up all of the holes in the hull that will be underwater when the boat splashes is my top priority. The biggest holes are where I need to weld in the raw water intake standpipes for the Cummins 6CTAs. But the most numerous holes are on the transom, where the swim platform supports will attach to the hull with a bunch of 3/8" stainless bolts.
I did all of the cosmetic work to the teak swim platform back in 2016. It's been sitting behind the boat, ready to install, since then. So I wrapped up some tapered spacers I need for the stainless platform supports, broke out the caulk gun, and installed the stainless and teak platform. That's ~40 holes below the waterline that are now water-tight. And the teak looks gorgeous mounted back where the goddess of the seas intended.
1969 Chris Craft Roamer 46 Refit: Installing the Swim Platform
Cheers,
Q
https://1969chriscraftroamer46.files...9/dsc08745.jpg
that is beautiful......but....i bet it is slippery when wet
I'll bet you're right. The steps going to the salon and aft stateroom will also be slippery.
I've been kicking around an idea for a few years involving a dusting of non-skid in a coat or two of varnish...maybe in just a couple strips rather than doing the whole surface.
I've seen it done, and it does work, also it looks duller than the area around it, so you can see where to step.
A technique we used on my nonskid was to apply it mixed into AwlGrip, which gives a savage nonskid coating that'll take skin off, then rolled on a single coat of AwlCraft2000 12 hours later. That knocks down the roughness a bit and gives it a bit of a topcoat shine, but with plenty of grip. That's the process they developed for Weaver sportfishermen.
I'm thinking we'll try the same with MS1 on the teak swim platform and steps, but with stripes.
I have done my decks with nonskid mixed right into the roller pan several times. A little of it goes a long way. I don't use flattener, and I do two coats, about eighteen hours apart. As usual in any kind of painting, prep is key. The deck has to be squeaky clean and completely degreased, and masked AFTER you do all that cleaning. Last year I masked and then did the prep and degreasing; solvent crept under the tape and the finished paint peeled from the edges. This year I washed and degreased the deck, sanded, and washed and degreased again, and then masked and painted. Holding up nicely.