Need Help Removing Internal Sea Strainer

Its been over a year since I installed external sea strainers. They have worked fine and I'm now committed to remove the internal strainers.
The drip-less shaft seals are at least 11 years old and the manufacturer advises replacing the bellows every 6 years. Lilly Marie is hauled out and I've undertaken to install the maintenance kits for the shaft seals.
The internal strainers sit just above the shaft seals so it was helpful to get them out of the way. The strainers came off of the frame with little problems. Removing the frame and plumbing is another question.
I tried a large stilson wrench and it did not budge the connectors. I see where several other members removed their internal strainers.
Any tips on how to safely remove the piping would be appreciated.Attachment 37371
Thanks
Vincent

You're going to need to use a torch, I like the yellow bottle over the regular blue one. Also, you probably need 2 wrenches and maybe a helper to hold on to the other piece from the one you're trying to get off.
If you don't want to use the heater you could go the PB Blaster route to loosen things up.

Thanks Cricket,
Probably will need to use a torch, I expect the paint on the threads will prevent PB Blaster from doing much

I would try the two wrenches first. I removed mine a few years ago and spun it off at the seacock with one wrench held steady while I worked the other. I braced the stationary wrench with a 2x4. Not too bad to get off with a big enough wrench.

you could try removing paint and rust with a wire wheel on a drill or 4 1/2 " angle grinder. once cleaned you could use PT blaster and renches

mark
lake of the woods
1989 40 DC

Removing paint around the threads sounds like a good approach. I removed the strainer baskets leaving only the frame.
That allowed me to pass a 30" length of pipe thru the frame and get significant leverage. A pipe wrench was necessary to hold the lowers section in place. I have the starboard side down to thru sea cock.
Tomorrow we will work on the port side which has worse access since I installed the inverter battery bank in the area outside of the port engine.
I scraped some of the paint in the area of the threads and sprayed blaster on it. Hope that helps.

The strainers were mounted sideways and their poor accessibility made them almost impossible to inspect, much less drain. Both were about 1/4 loaded with silt and one of the baskets had a significant amount of silt inside. I think their removal adds more than space.
Thanks
Vincent
Attachment 37401Attachment 37402

Is is possible to lengthen the pipe attached to the base higher and move it to easily service?

Good thought. It my understanding I no longer need inside strainers if I have the external ones.

I agree, although I don't know what kind of water your boat is in. I have not had internal strainers since my boat was converted from gas engines to diesel, and I don't miss them.

My boat has the PSS shaft seals. When we replaced the bellows about 2-3years ago, the old ones were actually still usable, and the new ones are even more robust than the old ones.

I switched to external strainers when I repowered for the mains and the air con. They work great. Just make sure your diver clean the screens

Have you considered replacing the thru hulls and sea cocks? Or at least impact them carefully if original. I replaced every thru hull and strainer on my boat... almost 50 year old. I sleep better at night. And I glassed 8 unused TH!

Pascal you beat me to the inspect at the least and or replace the thru hull and sea cock suggestion.
We've changed all of ours, after eliminating many of them.

Almost finished. Enough of the strainer plumbing is removed. One nipple and 30 degree elbow remain. They would not move and there seems no need to remove them.
The fittings were all bronze and there was no evident corrosion. It appears that bedding material made disassembly challenging.
After removing the paint from the threads I used PB Blaster and later tried a penetrating oil named Kroil. It was highly recommended, but I wonder if either oil made much difference.

The strainer frames were removed with nipples and elbows still attached. I removed them from the frames at the house where I had room to work. They seemed immovable to leverage but gave way to impact. Hitting the pipe wrench with a 16 oz hammer made things give.

Thanks for the good advice.
Vincent

Most likely bedded them with 5200