Ya...don't skimp on rule #2 (Keep the water out of the boat).
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Ya...don't skimp on rule #2 (Keep the water out of the boat).
I screwed the float to a piece of oak sealed with Smith's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Seals (CPES) to prevent rot. I secured the oak to the bilge in a bed of 3M4200 which will cure underwater. You can use 3M5200 also but 5200 is permanent and will not come back off.
RustyBucket,
My plan at this point is to eventually replace all the sump and bilge switches with more reliable units as the existing units die or when I happen to be working in the area.
We have only been boat owners/live aboards for 5 weeks and have had one bilge pump failure and one float switch failure already. That doesn't give one much of a feeling of confidence in the systems designed to keep the boat on the top of the water!
Nick
Cenger,
At this point I have an Ultra switch on order, so I won't need to pursue a way to secure the Rule switch as I originally thought I was going to do...BUT, I have a question...
Does the 3M4200 actually allow you to attach the oak block to the hull even if the area has water in it? Can you just reach down into the water and secure the block by sticking it against the bottom of the bilge with the 3M4200 on it and let it cure? If so, it seems that it could be a really handy process for me to remember!
Thanks,
Nick
The answer is possibly, but not very likely.
In order for the 4200 to adhere reliably to any surface that surface must be clean. It can be wet, but it must be free of any oils, greases, waxes, dirt, debris....etc.
If your bilge were thoroughly cleaned and any wax/grease/oil, flakey paint...etc were removed and you only had clear clean water remaining, then yes, it could adhere reliably.
In the common bilge, which has been coated with oil, diesel, grease, anti-sieze...etc throughout the years......, no way it adheres for any reliable amount of time.
Too bad! I was hoping it was a magical formula that would ignore the yuck that inevitably coats bilges and stick to the intended surface.
Get a wet vac and some Dawn dish soap and clean your bilge rinse well and then you have option of mounting with 5200 or epoxy.
Bob
3M5200 is good stuff. Give the bilge a scrub with soap and water, use an oil absorbent pad to get as much of the oil out of the water as you can and you will be fine. 5200 is designed to cure in wet conditions and will form an extremely strong bond.
VERY good stuff. My rule is to never use it unless I never plan to remove whatever I glue down with it. :cool: For this app I think 4200 will suffice. Yes, shop vac and get it clean and dry. Which is what your bilge should be anyways.
The number one reason for bilge pump failure is crud, and believe it or not human hair is on the top of the list. The average human loses 50-100 strands a day!!! Now, I don't have that many to lose, but in the past I have had three humans on board with me with a combined hair length of 80".... times 50-100. That's an anchor line a week I tell you. So, ships rules were that brushing was to be done ON DECK on the most leeward corner of the boat.....but I digress.....
So, keep your bilge clean, keep the crud out of the pumps and keep the water out of the boat. :)
5200 gets SOOOOOOOOO overused. On my old center console I swear they used it on EVERYTHING!!! Made me cuss even what should have been the most simple of tasks.
In the past 10 years you could probably count on one hand the number of times I felt 5200 was the correct solution. 99.99% of the time 4000, 4000UV or 4200 are the correct solutions.