Teak and Holly?

[mikep996]

Where's the best place to get teak and holly? The admiral is planning the winter's interior redesign of our 53MY and we will be putting T&H in the galley, passageway outside the enginerooms (from the galley to the door just aft of the aft engine room door), the V berth area, and the portion of the salon from the side doors forward.

Although not a wood product, I have heard that Amtico is good stuff but I couldn't find any listing on their site for simulated teak and holly.

[jim rosenthal]

One of the members of the Classic Yacht Club is doing something similar to this with a very good quality laminate called Lansol or Lansar or something like that. Very nice stuff. I will try to find out the name of it; they have gone south for the winter and it may take a while to track them down, but I will see if I can. I saw it and it is VERY nice, comes in matte and gloss finish, better than the real thing and a great deal less trouble and expense.

[Hatt36]

An Amtico dealer has hundreds of samples. I am sure that teak and holly would be available. I put a different pattern in my 36 and am pleased with it.
Richard

[Walter Pereira]

Mike.... Amtico teak and holly (or other woods) is great stuff. I comes as individual 2 1/4" strips with 1/4" strips for the seperation in choices of woods. I was referred to them by someone at Hatteras Yachts last year and I have already installed it on a couple of my boats. I think it is fantastic and fairly easy to install.

The product is actual (real wood) teak veneers sandwiched between a substrate which appears to be a black vinyl with a texture to grab the adhesive on the bottom and a clear vinyl? on the top surface which has a grain texture on it. Whatever the actual layers are, it is real wood in the center and therefore no two strips are duplicated.

If you would like, let me know and I can mail you a small piece of scrap for you to look at. The name and address of Amtico International, Inc. is 6480 Roswell Road, Atlanta, GA 30328. Phone: 404-267-1900

Walt

[hunsoldhatt]

The Guys on the Bert 31 page are havoing the same ?'s


www.amtico.com (http://www.amtico.com)

[krazy8]

You cant go wrong with Amtico , Did the whole interior of my 36 with it , great stuff , easy to use , just a wee bit pricey

[mikep996]

Just got off the phone with Amtico - thanks for the phone number.

If I understood the lady correctly, they do not make teak and holley as a "product." I would have to buy individual boards of teak and individual boards of beech (substitute for holly), rip the beech to 1/4 inch strips and then glue each board/strip down individually - pretty much the same as laying any board floor. Is this correct?

If so, wouldn't buying/installing sheet teak and holly be easier?

[PascalG]

mike

i think the beech comes in 1/4 strip already cut, doens' it?

here is a site for some teak n holly panel...
www.worldpanel.com/Marine...cialty.htm (http://www.worldpanel.com/Marineplywoodsspecialty.htm)

any idea on the cost of amtico ? i'm going to have get rid of the carpet in the companionway (carper between the engine rooms is a nightmare)... and maybe also in the fwd part of the salon, near the helm, carpet gets dirty there coming in and out thru the doors...

pascal

[krazy8]

The Amtico I used was as follows :

Amtico 3" X 36" Vinylwood/ Pland design # 699 Teak and

Beveled 1/4 " Gold Strips (They make a wider strip but does not look as nice)


This should run you around 4.74 / SF for the material and Amtico Adhesive was 20.00 per pail , its a little over a 1/2 gallon per pail.


Hope this helps

[PascalG]

thks for the info... it's not bad... did you buy the supplies from one of their distributror?

I've also been looking at altenative to carpet on the aft deck and all the teck look alike products are really expensive... at least $20/sqft for PlasTeak.

i wonder if amitco coudl work onthe aft deck too, using a dark insert.

pascal

[Walter Pereira]

Guys.... Contact Florence Garaffa (amtico) either by telephone 732-606-9059 or voice mail 800-214-3380 ext 1851 or EMAIL fgaraffa@amtico.com. She's very helpful.

Specifically I used W-699 E, Teak stripwood 2 1/4" X 36" or longer with contrasting 1/4" strips of W-693 E Beech. I used the BEVELED edge type but flush edge is also available. Cost is about $4 - $4.50 sq. ft. Believe me it's worth every cent. Also they have 2 types of adhesive, a 2 part Polyurethane or an Acrylic type. I tried both on different jobs but I think the Acrylic is less demanding on the installation and clean-up. Also you will need their special trowel.

Talk to their tech department regarding aft deck use but I am pretty sure it's fine for it also. The product was developed for commercial cruise ships so it should be OK for our use. Hell if it's good enough for Multi-million $ Hatteras' and others... what can I say. If anyone wants more info regarding installation etc, let me know...

Walt

[PascalG]

thks for the details!

what did you use to smooth out the floor before install? i haven't torn out the old vynil flooring lurking under the carpet but I'm pretty sure the surface ins't perferct.

you're right about if it's good for multi million $ boats... :-)

pascal

[MarioG]

Hey pascal,
you might want to check out this product by a company named "FlexTeek". they manufacture synthetic teak. I read this post and remembered that I picked up a sample at last years Miami boat show. Man let me tell you, it looks and feels like the real thing. Right down to the "caulking" in the seams. the material is a flexable plastic type product that comes in different lengths. it is glued on with poly or epoxy and the finish is unbeliveable, it looks and feels just like natural teak. I have looked at similar products and this beats them all hands down. don't know the price but they have a web site: www.flexiteekusa.com tel: 954-973-4335

When I get the 58'YF, I plan on useing this on the aft, side, fore deck and cockpit.

p.s. if Greg Norman can use it on "Aussie Rules" than so can we...;)

Mario

[AKUBI]

I have heard that the plastic look alike teak is to hot to walk on in the sun.

[Walter Pereira]

Regarding the installation over rough wood, which I also had especially when I removed the vinyl floor in the galley. The problem was taken care of by carefully filling in all the gouges etc reasonably smooth and gluing down pre-cut out "door skins" (door skins are available from many better lumber supply companies - not at HD). While door skins are available in several woods including birch and luann, I used the luann. Incidentially, door skins are thin (about 1/8") thick sheets of plywood. Be sure to use wood filler on seams and you may need to use some mechanical fasteners like brads or #4 flat head screws to hold it flat until it hardens. When it's hard, I recommend the next day just apply the Amtico.

By the way, I am also familiar with Flex Teak and it would be very attractive OUTSIDE, but the Amtico beats it hands down down below. Amtico is also available with a dark thin strip instead of holly. Another consideration is that Flex teak costs at least 4 times as much per square foot as Amtico. I do like Flex Teak on outdoor weather surfaces however.

Call me anytime 9-9 on my cell at 732-991-5665 if anyone wants more detail.... Walt

[PascalG]

i got a sample of plasTeak which seems to be indentical to flexteak. it does look good but indeed it cost about $20 a sqft... no idea how much marinedeck 2000 cost...

plasTeak is at the top of my list, my concern about amtico is that it must be slippery when wet.

pascal

[krazy8]

http://www.amtico.com/imagery/W699E_240.jpg

[Walter Pereira]

Since my experience with Amtico is indoors, I can't honestly comment regarding whether it's slippery when wet or not. I don't think it would be however since it's not uncommon to spill things in the galley and I can't recall ever slipping.

Chances are that Hatteras tested it thoroughly before they decided to install it on the new boats. Perhaps a call to someone in engineering at New Bern would be in order at this point. Amtico probably did extensive testing as well but they have a vested interest in a positive report. Keep in mind that it's used on cruise ships and I suspect those folks are very concerned about potential liability from falls etc.

Let me assure you, I do not have any personal financial interest in the Amtico company. I just like the product for all it's many attributes --- Looks, durability, ease of installation, relatively low cost and best of all ease of maintainance.

Walt

[Rich and Bernadette]

We are installing the Amtico Teak and White Birch floor in our 36C using the Amtico Universal 2 part adhesive from V birth to salon. The Hatteras floor is still in and we would like to cover it with the Amtico, any recommendations would be appreciated. Should we remove the old and if so is there an easy way of removing it.
The adhesive has a working life of an hour so all cutting and fitting should be done first. The Amtico seem to cut easier when heated. Also is can be bent when heated to fit the curvature of the deck behind the head. Any advice on removing the old floor would be appreciated.
Rich

[Genesis]

to remove the old floor.

I ripped up the linoleum in my galley about a year and a half ago, and replaced it with a pergo-style fake-wood.

It has held up REALLY well, and I'm not nice to it at all. We track salt water in there regularly, and generally make a hell of a mess.

Installing the new floor too me a day. Removing the old took me a week of workdays with a heat gun and scraper. It was NOT fun.

[mikep996]

Genesis is right - there is no easy way. I had reasonably good results using an iron rather than a heat gun to remove old flooring. I found that the iron transferred the heat better and seemed quicker and less smelly. It was still a big pain in the butt.

All the favorable comments re Amtico have convinced me that Amtico will be the installed floor on our 53 so I will be joining the "old floor removal" brigade fairly soon!

[Rich and Bernadette]

We know little about this old floor removal--so here goes the dumb question. Why remove the old floor covering?
You all remove it and we will if it is a must, however, it seems to be well attached. Could we sand it with some 60 paper and attach the new on top of it.
Thank you for the information.
Rich

[mikep996]

Its' safer to remove the old floor. Without removing the old flooring you have a much bigger chance of the installation failing after a few years - either the adhesive from new to old floor will fail or the old floor to subfloor might fail. Basically, there are two points of failure now instead of just one.

The lesser amount of work is not worth the trouble - remove the old floor. As the old saying goes, "If you don't take time to do it right, you'll have to MAKE time to do it over."

[Walter Pereira]

Mike... Good advice, do it right the first/last time...Walt

[goldwingdriver]

Check out this website. www.lonseal.com/ (http://www.lonseal.com/)
I just received their samples for Teak & Holley.
It is not shown on their website as it is a new product. The product is LONWOOD, and the Color # is 70 and 70 UV. I am really impressed with the 70 UV. Good Luck.

[jim rosenthal]

..that's the stuff. It DOES look good, and I think the UV version can be used on deck.

[PascalG]

goldwing... from what i see on their website, it comes in rolls... do you mean that it already comes as Teak n holly, 2 tone... no "assembly" required

For amtico, you need to get both "wood" and glue them down.. how does it comes btw? rolls or longer length?

i had seen rolls of vinyl teak n holly in a nautical catalogue I received... one of these "upscale" gadget cattlogue... price was very high though...

pascal

[goldwingdriver]

The Lonsol comes in 60"width I believe. It is like vinyl flooring in a roll and can be seemed together. I have only seen the sample but I have a salesman coming to Key Largo after the holidays with pricing and more in depth information. I'm looking to redo the interior on an old 43 DC.

[mikep996]

Wow, anyone (Lonsol) that can advertise with a phrase such as:

"...indescribably appealing natural mien that is perfect for creating awe-inspiring and inviting finishes.."

deserves consideration. If not for the product, at least for their marketing team!

My question is, if it is sold in sheet form, does it give the appearance of individual boards? For example on a 7 foot long section of the "teak" portion of the flooring, does it look like it is made up of 2-3 separate "teak" boards end-to-end, like a real hardwood floor would be? Or does it just look like one long single (and unrealistic) board? The amtico looks like a real wood floor because it is essentially laid like one with shorter/longer sections and offset end joints. Does the Lonsol share that "look?"

[krazy8]

Amtico in use , Not a Great Picture but gives you the idea.

http://www.watchuseek.com/cgi-bin/anyboard.cgi

[krazy8]

http://www.watchuseek.com/cgi-bin/anyboard.cgi

[krazy8]

http://www.watchuseek.com/cgi-bin/anyboard.cgi

[krazy8]

OK try this link

www.thebassbarn.com/cgi-b...977#000011 (http://www.thebassbarn.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=008977#000011)

[Rich and Bernadette]

Thank you for the advice on the floor removal. Looks like we have a big job ahead. The Amtico looks great. Trust all the removal work will allow it to hold up well. Thank you--all--for the information, these links are great.
Have a Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year
Rich & Bernadette

[hcalmar]

With the Amtico product how hard is it to do the hatches in the salon and make them look right. Do the have trim pieces for the outside edges?

[MikeP]

You will have to either fabricate your own trim pieces of wood, re-use the original metal trim pieces, or purchase new metal trim in some other color. We used oak trim, stained with minwax red mahogany stain, for all the stair and hatch trim. The step trim was L-shape and the hatch trim was 1.5" wide flat pieces (with rounded edges). I felt that the hatch trim was too thick underfoot so I planed it from 1/4 inch to a bit over 1/8. Bought the trim at Home Depot. You could also buy real teak to do this but the oak was handy and with the stain, it looks fine. I used regular old finishing nails to attach it but you could drill it for screws if you prefer.

I had planned to re-use the original metal trim but we thought it looked terrible with the "wood" floor.