53MY Rudder Leak

[Nonchalant1]

So my 1978 53MY developed a leak at the rudder post where the packing gland is. It's the original gland, I believe. Neither of the fittings will turn so I can't just tighten it as I expected. It'll have to be repacked, and I'll probably do the other one at the same time. The question is, how does the packing gland work? Is the bottom nut a locking nut, so I should hold the top hex and turn the bottom nut clockwise? Or is the whole thing an assembly and I should turn it all together?? I assume that the top holds the packing and the threaded bottom post squeezes it into the top, while the rudder post is just a straight shaft?

I'd appreciate any tips on this, including what you used to pack yours with (i.e. waxed flax packing). I'll call SAM's when we get back, but we're on a Mississippi and Missouri river trip now.

Thanks,

Doug Shuman

[rtrafford]

the bottom (or thin nut) is a locking nut only. it doesn't touch the packing. hold the top nut and turn the bottom one clockwise. the assembly is held into place by the four bolts in the hull, and the threaded stem is an integral part of that system. the boat will hold it still. after you've screwed the bottom nut clockwise and away from the top nut, unscrew (counter clockwise) the top nut and slide it up the rudder shaft.

here you will be well served to have a mirror and a tool to clean any old packing from the top nut. wrap the rudder post 2 times with new packing and lower the top nut back into position. do not use too much packing!

this exercise may be assisted by extra hands, especially if attempting to do this afloat. the extra hands can hold things for you, hand things to you, or run get that "special tool" at the critical time when you've realized you don't have it at your ready.

hope this helps.

[Trojan]

The packing should be in 2 layers.Cut the packing to the shaft size ahead of time.Make sure the cut is at an angle so they fit with no end gap,no greater than 45deg.So it looks like an endless ring.Place one packing ring up inside the cap.(not an easy trick)Mark where the joint is on the outside of the cap.You can temporarily screw the cap on a few turns and push the packing up in the nut a short ways so you have room for the next one .Then place the second ring up inside the cap with the gap 180deg.from the other ring gap.Use the mark on the outside the cap to align the packing ring gap.Use some KY on the top of the shaft flange so when you start to screw the cap down the packing does not catch or spin or bunch up in the cap.Hand tighten as tight as you can.Turn the rudders many times while you hand tighten until the cap is down tight or the water stops.If you have to use a wrench do it sparingly.Don't over tighten.Then tighten the lock nut.Check again after use for leaks and retighten if necessary .Good luck Bill

[Trojan]

I left out one important thing .Make sure you remove the old packing. I took that for granted that you would do that first.Good luck. Bill

[Nonchalant1]

Thanks very much! I'll call Sam's about the packing material. Any personal experience with one type or the other?

[rtrafford]

every boat supply house has packing. teflon packing is the more recent rage, but i've been quite old fashioned in my taste...

[Nonchalant1]

When you take the packing gland off in the water how much water comes through the shaft? I just don't want to exceed my bilge pump's capacity.

[rtrafford]

you're going to get a pretty good stream of water, but if you're prepared to work quickly, and, again, have competent help ready to assist, it can easily be done.

the only "trick" is getting the old packing out and clear...recommend one of those dental picks and a mirror.

your bilge pump shouldn't be too taxed. you can get this apart and back together in a few minutes if you're properly prepared.

a fresh tube of 5200 can act as your "oh, shoot" solution temporarily (underwater) should all else fail. having the packing precut properly and free spinning threads on the box will be your best friends.

[first230sl]

It looks like I have to at least tighten, and possibly re-pask my port rudder shaft.

I looked at it and I see that just above the top nut/cap/gland (is gland the correct term) is a plywood base that the rudder angle indicator pickup is mounted on (do any other 58 YF owners have that same base? - not sure if it is factory), and just above that is the steering arm attached to the top of the shaft. It looks like there will be very little clearance for the cap/gland to move upward after I unscrew it before it hits either the plywood or the steering arm.

Do I have to remove the steering arm and/or plywood in order to gain enough access to re-pack the gland? Or do I simply slide it up as far as it will go without dismantling anything and work with the limited access available?

Also - I do not have the wrenches. Can anyone point me to a good place to buy or rent them?

Thanks so much - Murray

[Trojan]

Be careful if you remove the steering arm.The rudders can fall out.Then you do have a problem.You can use 2 sink wrenches for $7.bucks each, at the hardware or pay the long buck at the boat shops.Same wrench at west.They are short wrenches with wide jaws not the best built wrench in the box.Sliding the gland nut up is the best way when in the water.Sears sells a packing gland removal kit for under $10 bucks I think.Like stated earlier dental picks work too but are not heavy duty.Just make sure you get the old packing out.Bill