Raw water elbow configuration

[ageless]

I discovered a crack in the raw water elbow of both expansion tanks. Efforts to have them brazed have failed, it seems they are a brass over copper mixture. Brazing would be a temp fix regardless as there are several areas that are pitted around the Y fitting. Due to the severity of the pitting and the less than ideal configuration (the elbow runs above and parallel to the valve cover) I would like some input on my reconfiguration. I would like to cut the Y pipe off the elbow, slip a piece of 2.5" hose on the elbow, run it along the stringer to a stainless Y pipe, then attach the (2) 2" hoses that run to the exhaust elbows. Thoughts? For those with 12/71's, do you have the same elbow's? I've seen one other 52' set up with a configuration like I am considering.

[rustybucket]

Having a hard time picturing what you're describing. Any chance you got a pic or two of the setup?

I have made 90's before using brass/bronze threaded 90's and threading in a short nipple cut in half. Then you can clamp your hose to the short nipple.

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

Having a hard time picturing what you're describing. Any chance you got a pic or two of the setup?

I have made 90's before using brass/bronze threaded 90's and threading in a short nipple cut in half. Then you can clamp your hose to the short nipple.Me too (picturing). If you mean the raw water pipe from the pump to the coolers, I saw a guy flow epoxy of some sort inside the metal and just keep rotating it until it began to set-up--redneck relining I guess. Not recommending, just reporting.

[ageless]

The elbow I speak of is in the background of this photo. I would essentially cut the Y fitting off about a foot back from where it's welded on, slip a 2.5" hose on and run it to a stainless Y I would mount to the outside of the stringer. The (2) 2" hoses seen in the ER pic would then attach to the stainless Y and run to the exhaust elbows

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ffPZcqKwEDmjMwqm7

[scottinsydney]

If I have read your post correctly, it is the stainless Y fitting is welded to the part that has got the pitting.

If so, my previous boat had 8V92s and a similar Y setup.

The cause of the pitting was electrolysis (or dissimilar metals in warm salty water.) The Y was patched at the stainless steel repair shop. We attached a tinned grounding wire to it and the motor body. The problem never reoccurred in 11 years.

Electrolysis may be the cause of this issue for you, especially if the parts are not properly grounded to the motor.

[ageless]

If I have read your post correctly, it is the stainless Y fitting is welded to the part that has got the pitting.

If so, my previous boat had 8V92s and a similar Y setup.

The cause of the pitting was electrolysis (or dissimilar metals in warm salty water.) The Y was patched at the stainless steel repair shop. We attached a tinned grounding wire to it and the motor body. The problem never reoccurred in 11 years.

Electrolysis may be the cause of this issue for you, especially if the parts are not properly grounded to the motor.

The Y that is presently welded to the elbow is the same brass over copper that the elbow is, perplexing why it is only pitted on the Y section. I would be removing that section and mounting a stainless Y downstream of the elbow.

[Captain Ralph]

Picture and previous thread here;

https://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showthread.php?33505-In-search-of-Detroit-raw-water-elbow&p=367107#post367107

If you don't like solder, Epoxy works well on clean bronze/brass.
(https://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showthread.php?33505-In-search-of-Detroit-raw-water-elbow&p=367107#post367107)

[SKYCHENEY]

I see no reason you couldn't cut off the old Y and replace with a short length of hose and a new Y. Is that the question?

[ageless]

I see no reason you couldn't cut off the old Y and replace with a short length of hose and a new Y. Is that the question?

yes. My concern is whether I would have any back pressure issues moving it from above the engine to the stringer

[Captain Ralph]

Why would you move it to the stringer?

[ageless]

Why would you move it to the stringer?

With the present configuration it makes accessing the top of the engine pretty cumbersome, more of a convenience for later maintenance necessities.

[racclarkson@gmail.com]

yes. My concern is whether I would have any back pressure issues moving it from above the engine to the stringerI've digested this a bit now. I actually think it's not a good idea to run it below the level where it enters the exhaust elbow. But I can't say exactly why. I can share that the hose on Aslan runs at about the level of the bottom of the valve cover using a steel bracket bolted over the exhaust manifold bolts. Good luck.

[ageless]

I've digested this a bit now. I actually think it's not a good idea to run it below the level where it enters the exhaust elbow. But I can't say exactly why. I can share that the hose on Aslan runs at about the level of the bottom of the valve cover using a steel bracket bolted over the exhaust manifold bolts. Good luck.

thank you sir. I am having two Y's made by a local shop and will update further

[12V71]

IF you can not buy this configuration off the shelf for that boat
True Wyes are expense and most have to be fabricated anyways with long lead times. One thing i would consider is getting a good fab shop (Certified Pipe Welders) to make it using a concentric or eccentric reducer (can't see the detail in the pic) and Pipe. I would use sch. 40 (not for the pressure but thickness and longevity) 316L USA made material and 316L Filler. GTAW (TIG) BW procedure with Argon purge. make sure you inspect it when you pick it up to ensure no black (or sugar) inside on the root pass. Will cost you a $good amount to get this done.

[kelpy]

That doesn't look like it came from DD that way. It could be a Covington part/ configuration ordered by Hatteras.

[Captain Ralph]

That doesn't look like it came from DD that way. It could be a Covington part/ configuration ordered by Hatteras.
It is a custom Hatteras Y.
Sam's part number 14108.

[SKYCHENEY]

It is a custom Hatteras Y.
Sam's part number 14108.

http://parts.samsmarine.com/partsearch/images/14108.jpg

And it says that they have 7 in stock

[Captain Ralph]

http://parts.samsmarine.com/partsearch/images/14108.jpg

And it says that they have 7 in stock

A few less now.
Get Alex on the phone asap. He is working at home. He found them this morning.
I think they will still need a 2.5" short hose to attach to the original DDC tube.
I will have them in hand probably Tuesday. Will know more then.

[ageless]

A few less now.
Get Alex on the phone asap. He is working at home. He found them this morning.
I think they will still need a 2.5" short hose to attach to the original DDC tube.
I will have them in hand probably Tuesday. Will know more then.

I ordered mine today--thanks again Capt. Ralph

[Captain Ralph]

I have been aweigh for a while. In the mean time, the below part did not work for us.
To small of hose sizes.
So, I epoxied up with glass cloth the failure and the owner is off running his ship.

There was another thread where a member had a new discharge pipe made of stainless.
Can somebody please point me to that thread. I'd like to offer a similar plan to the owner.

Not sure if shinny copper is as pretty as shinny stainless..
I would like to think the copper would have less issues with warm salt water thru it.

[Jammin']

My opinion is that shiny copper is prettier.