windows leaking

[hatterass]

My 1971 36c side windows are leaking. I was replaceing a speaker the other day and when I pulled the speaker, the wood behind was soaked and dripping. It appeirs that it is only leaking at the aft part of the window. I thought that the drain in the window was clogged but it was not. I does not look like their are any holes in the window. anybody have this problem or know how to fix it? thanks for the help.
Capt Dave


I do know that most of these window you have to fix from the out side but I do not think that this is where it is comming from.

[Genesis]

Are these the usual Hatteras channel arrangement (you can slide them open)? If so the channel has probably perforated - its aluminum and eventually does that.

The only real fix is to pull the channel and replace it, while cleaning up any damage behind it.

[67hat34c]

Agree on pulling windows. you will most likely find holes in the frames that are not worth fixing. new windows for that boat are not that expensive depending on who makes them. i just got new side windows for my 34c, not installed yet. We used Waterway Systems in Sarasota FL. He has jigs made for most hatteras models all we had to do was verify size of our windows to make sure they were original as his jigs are designed from original window size. we changed from sliding windows to fixed. less chance of leaking. also went with limo glass,

[hatterass]

I am going to the boat today and will advise on the silder condition. They are orignal but look to be in very good shape. this sounds drastic? how cheap is cheap? and is replaceing the only solution?

[67hat34c]

our fixed windows with limo glass came to 1700 for the pair. the frames are made with hatteras extrusions and are powder coated. the only thing we paid extra for was the limo glass. about 75 each side extra over clear tempered. cant tint a window that cheep.

If you want to try to beat some more life out of them, you could pull them and clean the track out. then fill track with epoxy, it will be then basicaly a fixed window but at least it would not leak.

[Genesis]

Careful doing that. If you bond the frame to the hull you'll NEVER get that frame out later without MAJOR destruction! If there are hole in the frame the epoxy WILL run down them and bond to whatever is under it.....

[NAN-PO 41]

I bought 4 windows for my 41tc ( 2 opening with screens and 2 fixed ) for just over $1100.00 delivered to Boston from Wynne Enterprises in Tuscumbia Ala. Check out their website. The windows are clamp ring construction so there are no screws on the outside. This is the 2nd set I have bought from them. The first set on my other boat is 7 years old and no problems.
Fred

[GOLE IV]

In my 1973 45c I had a similar issue and after removing the frames, replacing two of the windows the leak continued, finally found leaks coming from fittings on the top side, specifically the outriggers bases or extension arms base. If they get loose the water will leak thru the loose bolts run under the top to the sides. It may look like coming form the window frames.

After removing, replacing the sealing compound ( silicone) and in some cases new screws, problem solved.

[Jimmy Watts]

Captain Dave,

Before you do anything expensive, first examine your frames at the center of the top sliding section. Normally a teak block has been inserted there. This causes corrosion to build and eats a hole through the top of the frame. Next check the lower sections for any white powdery substance (corrosion). Try an look in between the fuzz on the bottom track (hard to do with the nylon in place also). Next look on the inside of the boat at the 3" splash rail. Are there any holes or spots of corrosion? If all of this appears to be in good shape, its possible that the seal on the outside between the flange and the hull is no longer intact. You might get lucky and just have to remove the frames, clean and rebed.

I build replacement windows for Hatteras boats also. I have been working with Steve at SAM's for many years now. Unfortunately, my price is higher than the ones mentioned above. I use the original Hatteras extrusion and get my frames anodized instead of powder coating. I believe that anodizing is superior to powder coating and I want to try to give my customers the best finished product available.

If you have any further questions about your situation and would like to call and discuss them, I will be happy to try and help. 252-634-2214

Jimmy Watts

[Trojan]

I just replaced the 2 front center windshield on my 73/43. they both leaked and the glass was delaminating. The inner seals were were old, hard and shrunk up. There was nothing wrong with the frames. The side windows were the same. Hatteras used a 1/16 X 1 X 3 piece of plastic 2 per side to retain the glass. When the sealant shrinks the water can get in and around this piece of plastic. All of the inner frame seals were dried up and hard. I removed all of my windows and replaced the ones that were delaminating and resealed them all. NO LEAKS.



BILL

[67hat34c]

Regarding filling the track, I ment filling it off of the boat as the expoxy will run through the holes. Filling the track is only to beat more life out and not ment to be a perminent fix. the frames will continue to corrode and will possibly lift the expoxy and cause leaks again. however if you sand blast them, chances are you will clean them enough to get good epoxy seal and they may last for years.

Either way, recommend you pull the windows and frames and clean them down and then decide what course you want to take. you can always make plywood plugs and cover the openings , pain them white, use stick on gasket material to seal them and at least you can use your boat while windows are out. This is what we did for front windows and it allowed us to take our time.

[REBrueckner]

When replacing my salon sofa on my '72 48ft YF, I found the one I was installing was about an inch too big to go in the side window...so I removed the frame on the starboard side where I had a small leak. While at it, I removed the old glass and had new made as it was discolored along several edges. While I was at it, I also replaced the plastic slider and fuzz. I had to cut the caulk all around the outside of the frame with a filed sharp pututy knife hammered between the frame and cabin fiberglass..a larger putty knife against the glass protected it from scratches from the sharpened smaller one...after removal of the frame I discovered Hatteras did a LOUSY job cutting the opening for the frame...very irregular, several screws from the frame were into thin air, some caulk was clearly leaking (you can tell from the dirt)....So the caulk did not really fail, it was poor workmanship. I removed all the old caulk from the mating surfaces, beaded LIFECAULK all around the frame and fiberglass cabinsideand reinstalled it. It was one long day, most of the time spent trying to cut the old caulk...It's been dry ever since.

[Tom Ipock]

...after removal of the frame I discovered Hatteras did a LOUSY job cutting the opening for the frame...very irregular, several screws from the frame were into thin air, [/QUOTE]

I have heard this same story over and over about the lousy job Hatt did when they cut out the openings for the windows. What is up with that?
Tom

[hatterass]

thanks for all the reples, I went to the boat yesterday and examined the windows tracks and rails. yes there is some "fuzz" corosion, but nothing that shows signs of holes or big rot. I have no other holes in the boat abovethe windows to leak down. Jim maby I will try to take out the frames and see if they need to be sealed again. I will try to take pictures this week end and send them out. this one is really puzzling. Thanks for all the input.
Capt Dave

[Capt K]

It seems Hatteras had a "close enough" attitude toward window openings in the earlier days. THe galley windows in my 1965 50' MY had some leaks. When I pulled them, the openings were only roughly the correct shape. I filled and built up the openings with reinforced body filler (Bondo-like) which also sealed the balsa coring in there. No problems in four years, now.

K :cool: