Prop Puller

[Top Shelf]

Any suggestions on where to acquire a prop puller for 34" diameter wheels with 2.5" bore. I notice my running wheels and spare wheels have some holes in each blade down by the bore (not threaded, maybe 3/8" dia). There are also 3 5/8" in diameter tapped holes in the face of the "hub" (behind where the nuts go). Is there some unique puller that Hat uses to take advantage of these threaded holes? Thx.

[hmacdonald]

The device is called PropSmith, website is www.gpcprop.com. They do a very good job.

[Top Shelf]

I checked out their web site. Looks like exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for passing that along.

[justinhof]

I went with a company called Deep Blue Yacht Supply. They had it for a great price. I think their website was www.deepblueyachtsupply.com. Definitely worth checking out.

[MikeP]

A 5 pound sledge hammer is much cheaper and you can probably borrow one at any marina where they are commonly used in place of those ridiculously priced prop pullers! If you ask the marina for a "real" prop puller, they will look at you like you fell off the turnip truck yesterday.








NOTE: THE ABOVE IS MEANT TO BE TOTALLY SARCASTIC! Always buy and use GOOD quality tools that are made for the job at hand!

[Genesis]

Prop Smith is ok BUT you need to have the prop hub drilled and tapped to use it to pull props.

What I have is the Algonac Puller. The large one will work on your wheels.

It requires nothing other than enough room in the DAR to get it in there, and it positively works. No banging or screwing around.

[Bob Bradley]

I went to a local steel yard and had them cut me 3 round pieces of steel (1/2" thick if I recall), each about 10 - 12" in diameter. I can measure them if you want. One has a 2.5" hole bored in the center; the second has the same 2.5" hole, but the hole is the inner end of a "U" that is cut out to the edge of the piece; the third has no hole. Each piece has four 5/8" holes about 3/4" in from the edge to run 9/16" threaded rod thru.

I have 2" shafts and 4 blade props, so adjust the size of the large holes and number of smaller holes accordingly.

The piece with the U, and the flat piece are used to remove the prop. The piece with the hole, and the piece with the U are used to press the prop back on (place the U forward of the strut).
Bob

[TedZ]

That is the way i do it also. Cost almost nothing for two pieces of plate and all-thread and i made mine two square pieces...four rods drilled in the right place for a four bladed propeller.

Ted

[Paul45c]

Most large prop shops will sell one or more brands of serious pullers. I forget the brand, but I got mine at Frank & Jimmy's in Fort Lauderdale. Probably paid too much, but it works well.

[Capten]

I am a huge fan of the PropSmith. Been using it for years and it works very well for removing and installing the wheels on the shaft securely. In fact, on more than one occasion (including this past weekend) the 'professionals' have had to use my PropSmith because their pullers could not remove my wheels. The tool is very compact and stows well.

Yes they are pricey. Yes you do have to have your hubs drilled and tapped. And yes, Hatteras and Viking have been including a PropSmith with the delivery of their new yachts.

[jim rosenthal]

The PropSmith is good, I have heard it was actually designed by Hatteras for their boats, but the Walters puller is just as good and works well. And you don't have to drill and tap your wheels. I have tried all of them, by now. The Walters works the best and it is what I have. Hasn't failed me yet. Walters machine sells it directly, they are up in NJ I think.

[Genesis]

I've never seen a wheel my Algonac won't get off - and easily at that.

http://www.mindermanmarine.com/photo_puller_2.gif

That's a picture of the smaller model (they have two) - the small one will handle props up to about 24", the large from ~24 up to 80" or thereabouts.

I like the Propsmith design as well but this one has the advantage of working on virtually any wheel without any special preparations......

[CARL GUZMAN]

Most large prop shops will sell one or more brands of serious pullers. I forget the brand, but I got mine at Frank & Jimmy's in Fort Lauderdale. Probably paid too much, but it works well.

I had a 36' Tiara and pulled my own 21inch props with a puller ordered from the local Napa in the keys but I'll tell you one thing when that baby went ( under water ) it was like a grenade, so my advice is pull it like you mean it then hit it with the sledge :D

[Capten]

I've never seen a wheel my Algonac won't get off - and easily at that.

http://www.mindermanmarine.com/photo_puller_2.gif

That's a picture of the smaller model (they have two) - the small one will handle props up to about 24", the large from ~24 up to 80" or thereabouts.

I like the Propsmith design as well but this one has the advantage of working on virtually any wheel without any special preparations......

I don't disagree with you Karl but interestingly enough the large Algonac is what they tried to use on my wheels this past weekend and they wouldn't budge. Guy said he had never torqued it up that much before and was a bit scared. Used my PropSmith and they popped right off.

Granted it takes a little longer to set up with the PropSmith and you have to go through the added trouble (and expense) to tap the hubs.

[CARL GUZMAN]

After what happened to me at Black Point - Elliot Key this weekend I'm not sure the pullers in the thred may have done the job. the guy who did mine came with a hydrolic puller and the key was a little bent in the hub so thats why I think I need to go hydrolic any one know where to order one of theies things. remember me wheel is 32 inches :eek: I freaked at the size and the crane/davit came in handy to change. If I did go mechanical puller the propsmith looks good.. when I did my Tiara props 22 inch the bolt would bend off the front and I can't imagine not going hydrolic.

here one ? http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=23

[CARL GUZMAN]

Most large prop shops will sell one or more brands of serious pullers. I forget the brand, but I got mine at Frank & Jimmy's in Fort Lauderdale. Probably paid too much, but it works well.

:eek: I thought we asked everyone at the CDR if they where carrying a puller and no one had one :confused: I know Randy asked you???

[Genesis]

If the prop slipped on the shaft I would haul the boat.

Here's why.

The key is not supposed to actually take any load. At all. Zero. It is there ONLY for your convenience while you are tightening things up.

Ok, so if the prop moves, this tells me two things:

1. It wasn't lapped right the last time it was off.
AND
2. You loaded the keyway, as evidenced by the jammed key.

In that case I want the wheel off the shaft and I might even want the shaft out of the boat. I DEFINITELY want the wheel off though and then I'm going to take a 30x Jewler's Loupe - at minimum - and examine the shaft and keyway VERY, VERY carefully.

If I'm not completely satisfied with what I see, the shaft is coming off and going to a machine shop to be dialed and examined under high magnification. If the taper has slight (and I do mean VERY slight) damage they can clean it up at a machine shop and it will be ok.

If a crack has been initiated in the keyway - which is where it almost ALWAYS happens - somewhere down the road the shaft will break. This will cost you both a shaft and a wheel. If there is a crack the shaft is trash but the wheel is still on the boat and costs about the same as the shaft does, so saving half the cost is well worth doing if you can.

It is very, very hard to see these when they're first initiated, so you need to examine with extreme care.

Guz, you should not have slipped the wheel with that impact - I saw the pictures. That's not that bad. I've seen props turned into totally flattened wheels with almost no ears left on them and they didn't move a millimeter on the taper. A properly mated taper joint should not fail before the SHAFT does.

So - given what you know, I'd haul the boat, inspect closely, and then PROPERLY remount BOTH props. Guaranteed, if one was done wrong, so was the other.

[CARL GUZMAN]

Well I think the first vessel asist guy said that to work me out of that hundred bucks but when the Miami guys did it they didn't say it sliped and the keys they punched out on the dock with a small hammer they slid right out they grinded the surface some and tapped right into the new wheels so I don't think it was that bad but what ells can go wrong with the seating etc. what does lap mean???

[Genesis]

http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2650&highlight=prop+shaft

Note the diagram. The key should not actually be touching the prop at the top of the prop's keyway.

The best way to insure that its not too tight is to put the wheel on the shaft and then insert the key from the rear. If you need more than two fingers to push it in there, something's not right.

[mike]

FWIW, an approach I use is a variation on the 2 plates and all-thread method. I use a hydraulic porto-power with a 2" long ram between the end plate and the shaft (with the nut on loose ~3/8"). Then proceed by adding 1 to 2 tons of ram pressure, followed by a little heat from a propane tourch on the prop hub. The prop will usually pop right off. For in water it takes a lot more pressure, without the heat component.

[Trojan]

Lapping is the process of applying a special gritty compound (it comes in different grits) to the shaft and slowly rotating the prop on the shaft taper. This will remove any minuet imperfections in the joint. This allows the prop to adhere to the shaft with low torque without slipping.



BILL

[34Hatt]

I've never seen a wheel my Algonac won't get off - and easily at that.

I have same puller my buddy boat 1 3/4" shaft and a 21" wheel which sice of the wheel really doesn't matter it the shaft size bigger shaft more surface area.
Well I had that sucker crank Tight :eek: and hit it with a big hammer " which I don't like to do if hooked to Tranny" would not pop. Had to use two B tanks add some heat and she pop right off. Now that would be a bitch to do in the water :D . This was my brother's puller and he has had it for 25 years he love's it but sorry I am not Impressed :cool: and I have used it about 10 times now!

[Genesis]

I dunno man - I've pulled a dozen wheels with mine, including some underwater, and have never had a problem. I started borrowing them - I've seen and used just about everything over my life from two pieces of heavy steel with a shaft-size slot cut in one with drawbolts to several "ready-made" versions of the same thing and then, a few years ago, a yard had an Algonac they let me use.

I found the thing to be simply amazing. I bought the big one and while I sold the boat that tool is still in my garage, where its gonna stay - if I buy another big boat you can bet I'll be using it again!

One of the problems with working underwater is generating enough force to use conventional tools due to the inability to brace against anything but the boat. It gets amusing watching someone TRY if you're around when they're doing it. I've never had to put much "meat" into using the Algonac to get a wheel off - it may be that I have the big one or it may just be that I've never run into a really badly-seized prop on a shaft yet, but it sure has worked for me.

[Paul45c]

Boy, what an unholy CLANG!!! you get the first time you pull a big prop using a puller underwater. Just about hit my head on the boat bottom from the shock.

[Paul45c]

:eek: I thought we asked everyone at the CDR if they where carrying a puller and no one had one :confused: I know Randy asked you???Sorry, buddy, have no clear recollection of Randy or anybody asking me. It was there and on the boat. Big beefy one, too. Too bad.

[CARL GUZMAN]

Wait till I get my hands on that Freebird :mad: he said he asked all the Hatt's by phone and radio.. I think he likes spending money :confused:

[34Hatt]

I found the thing to be simply amazing. I bought the big one and while I sold the boat that tool is still in my garage, where its gonna stay
Good choice to keep for sure specially since it would not add to price. I will be using it again when boat comes out I think I will measure it up and you can let me know if it is the smaller one. Like I said it did always work for me on my boat but my buddy's boat NO Both times needed heat. I am sure that Bigger is better as long as it will fit between strut and wheel. And on Buddy's boat it was only one side, and it was the same one both times I feel that side just has a great fit. And I lapped them each time so it is only getting better.


One of the problems with working underwater is generating enough force to use conventional tools due to the inability to brace against anything but the boat. It gets amusing watching someone TRY if you're around when they're doing it.
I have thought about that, and it would be amusing but only if your the one watching :D .
Did you have to smack it under water? Would think that would be a little difficult to say the least.

[Genesis]

Nope. Never had to smack anything.

Back the nuts off a bit (so the wheel doesn't go FLYING off the shaft!), put the puller on set to the proper gap, fasten the chain around the shaft (so it doesn't go flying when it comes loose and possibly clock you) and put a wrench on the outside nut.

Never had to anything more than turn it - no bracing on the hull to really crank on it, nothing like that at all. But believe me - you do know there was a shizload of force there when it lets go!

The hardest part has always been shoring the wheel between strut and rudder with a 2x6 (they float!) so you can get the nuts loose. Now for THAT I've had to stick my finned feet up against the strut before to get enough leverage. God help you if you slip......

BTW the correct way to handle the prop itself is with a lift bag. Attempting to wrestle a propellor underwater without one is asking to get hurt. Even with a bag its somewhat of an art form, but mostly on the surface side - underwater, using a bag properly, you can easily maneuver the wheel without too much drama.

This IS "heavy work" though - you'll be shocked at how fast a standard 80 goes pulling wheels......

[Freebird]

Sorry, buddy, have no clear recollection of Randy or anybody asking me. It was there and on the boat. Big beefy one, too. Too bad.

You don't have no clear recollection of anything that happend that weekend JelloBoy!!!

I tried your cell, your buddies cell, Bill Elliott (who could forget that name?), but no answer. Tried you on 16, 68, and 72. No answer.

Sorry about that banged up prop there GuzBoy, but I tried to get help, honest! Besides, if "Dave" had shown up with his prop puller, we'd have missed that vessel assist guy's helper in that thong! :cool:

[Freebird]

Lapping is the process of applying a special gritty compound (it comes in different grits) to the shaft and slowly rotating the prop on the shaft taper. This will remove any minuet imperfections in the joint. This allows the prop to adhere to the shaft with low torque without slipping.
BILL

That ain't the definition of "lapping" that the girls at the Peek-a-Boo lounge in Bradenton offered! :cool:

Thanks for the clarification. I've changed many a prop and have not heard the term. We just always used fine sandpaper to clean a shaft, but I'm a freshwater guy.

[Paul45c]

You don't have no clear recollection of anything that happend that weekend JelloBoy!!!Ouch! Touche, though. :o


I tried your cell, your buddies cell, Bill Elliott (who could forget that name?)... I should hope you'd remember the poor honest fireman's name; the tale I heard is he ran you around the anchorage for about an hour searching for the missing "GuzCruiser" in vain until he came back from his misadventures. Bill's good people that way. Me, I would have dropped you off on one of those boats full of nice boys flying the rainbow flag and tell you to try again in the morning. :D

[Freebird]

Ole wild Bill from Dawsonville didn't take me anywhere. He took my co-GuzCruzer Wayne back to the mother ship that had since vanished. They returned shortly thereafter.

To refresh your memory, you pushed me off your boat into a waiting dinghy and knocked your buddy's glasses off! Unfortunately, a LE officer saw the whole boarding process and made your buddy follow the bouncing flashlight with his eyes! I just knew we were headed to jail, but I guess your buddy passed the test. Either that or the LE guy felt sorry for us. Maybe he knew you. :D

Of all the boats I could have ended up on, I had to choose yours! Half a dozen drunk guys without a girl in sight (except for that "educational" video they were watching on TV). Don't worry there JelloBoy, I'll let you make it up to me when I head down to FLIBS. Just don't let your wife see me. I'd hate to break up a happy marriage! :cool:

[stewart]

I just had my cutles bearings replaced on a 58 MY. when they split the stub shaft coupling, 8 SS bolts, there is a key way holding both shafts together. If laped prop mounts dont realy need a key , does that mean the shaft coupling is suffering the same shear st
ress on the keyway and key? Stewart

[SKYCHENEY]

One thing about the coupling is that the keyway is much longer than that on a prop. This distributes the load over a larger area.

[stewart]

Thanks SKY I hope they tightened the bolts to proper specks.Stewart

[Trojan]

The coupling is a completely different type of application. It MUST have a key. The prop is a friction type joint. The coupler is strictly an alignment tool to keep the shafts in line and hold the the key in place. The drive is maintained by the key it's self. The key is probably larger in the coupler than the key in the prop. The 8 bolts maintain the shaft alignment by the clamping action. It does not hurt to lap the couping and shafts to make sure it is a clean fit. The bolt tightening is critical. They should be torqued in a cross pattern and a progressive torque. Like finger tight checking the gap. Then 5 lbs then 10 lbs then 15 lbs and then the final torque. The gap must be kept even from side to side and end to end. Improper tightening could result in a sheared key or a broken coupler or both while when under way. Most people don't pay much attention to this critical part of the drive train.


BILL