Galleymaid Head Pump Losing Prime

[jlr]

Need some help. My usual contact at Hatteras is away. On my 56 MY, my forward head loses its prime afetr I've gone out for a ride and am up on plane. Even when returnig to the dock, after a ride, I need to press the button several times to draw water into the bowl. It never loses prime once at the dock. I was told by Razz that Hatteras should have but generally did not install a check valve at the strainer (intake) for this head. Any ideas?

[67hat34c]

has this problem always been there or is it new. you may need to look at the plumbing from the sea strainer to pump then from pump to bowl. there should be a continuous upward flow, no dips in the hose and no crowns. since the pump is not self priming it does not have enough force to push an air pocket out. the system should drain down to the pump when not in use, pump below water line. this is the same plumbing set up for the ac cooling pump unless self priming.

[jlr]

I think, though I am not sure, it has always been happening. I suspect that if Razz thought it was a pump issue (stators) etc., he would have sold me a pump. With Roger out at Hatteras, my usual source of great info is gone. Long haul from the strainer (mid stateroom) to forward head (about 25 feet).

[67hat34c]

where is the pump located? near head or near strainer. also is it below the water line? either way the trick is a smooth upward slope from strainer to head. the only pump that can force water through an air locked dip in the hose would be a self priming pump. these have a rubber impeller much the same as the raw water pumps have on engins. impellers have to be changed as they wear out otherwise they are good.

[JLR]

Nothing has changed in the setup. Head pump is near head, not strainer. Anyone have experience with these heads and losing prime?

[dshuman]

JLR - You are not answering the question asked. Is the pump itself located below the waterline?

If so, it will self prime by water pressure. I have 3 of these pumps on my 53MY and after the boat is hauled and put back in, you have to hold the button down for a while before it fills. I'd guess that you're getting that same thing when you plane. When I plane my 53MY, that doesn't happen, but the intake for the forward stateroom head is pretty far back on the boat.

A check valve might do the trick.

[BEC53]

I solved my Galleymaid pump problems by closing the seacocks about halfway. You'll still get plenty of water, but the intake and outflow while on plane will be dampened. It's worth a try.

[JLR]

The pump is NOT below the waterline. The check valve should be installed tomorrow. I hope that works. If that is not the problem, any other ideas why this pump would lose its prime if all else appears to be working fine (ie. when it has water in the bowl)?

[67hat34c]

water in bowl does not have anything to do with plumbing system from strainer to bowl. the best way i can illistrate this is for you to visit the web site for cruise air and look at the installation instructions for the ac system. uses the same pump. they show proper way and improper way. if there are dips in the line, it acts like a pea trap under your sink. the water puppy cant push air pressure. it only moves water. the line from the head to the pump should be dry. the pump must be below water line to keep water to the pump. when you turn it on the water pipe from pump must be clear so that the water can flow.

[dshuman]

When you look at the pump, you can see two separate sides coming off the dame motor. These are separate pumps, operating independently off the same saft. The supply pump pumps water to the bowl while the discharge side pumps the bowl to the holding tank. Water in the bowl only primes the discharge side, while seawater primes the supply side.
Would it be possible to move the head pump so it's below the water line? All 3 of my GalleyMaid head pumps are below the waterline on my 53MY. The natural water pressure fills and primes the pump.

[jlr]

Installed new pump. All now works fine.

[Nonchalant1]

Save the old one. They're expensive and usually only need a new rubber stator or a stator/rotor combination.