copper fuel line replacement

[rmaher]

While trying to bleed an engine (long story!) I twisted and cracked the 8" L shaped copper fuel line from the engine mounted fuel filter to the block on my 671ti. A spare hose barb, clamps and fuel hose got us home. Anyone know a reason why I couldn't replace the flared fittings and copper pipe with 250 psi rated fuel hose?

[Genesis]

.... is A1-rated pressure-rated fuel hose. Aeroquip makes the correct stuff to use, along with the fittings for it. Their FC234 line is the "right stuff" and carries the appropriate USCG rating.

This stuff is VASTLY superior to copper line, but its also quite expensive. I replaced all my oil lines (which are made of the same sutff) and fittings (which were old and nasty) and the tab came up to over $1k just for the line and fittings!

Hydraulic Supply in Sunrise, FL has what you need.

[rmaher]

Roger your last! Read the specs online; great stuff!!

[Really]

How can you say a hose is superior to copper line??? Copper will outlast any hose on your boat. Rubber or even synthetic hose will evantually crack and leak. Copper is better!!!! Replace what Hatteras put there.

[Genesis]

A1-fuel rated hose will outlast copper lines on a boat 90% of the time.

Copper will last a lifetime in an environment where it is not exposed to vibration. Unfortunately, it is on a boat.

Copper can also corrode. Fuel hose will not.

Copper will work-harden with vibration, which is how it usually fails. Hose is impervious to that mode of failure.

Finally, copper is subject to impact damage that hose will laugh at.

I have original copper fuel lines on my Hatteras. They are showing signs of deterioration at 20 years. Next winter they are likely to get torn out and replaced, as I prefer to deal with things BEFORE they become critical.

A1-rated hose can and routinely does go 20+ years without needing replacement. The ends typically need replaced before the hose does, but replacing the ends forces replacement of the hose, since you would have to cut off the old end in order to insure that the seal was good on the replacement - which typically makes the hose too short.

I JUST replaced all my A1-rated hose lines in my boat - they were original, and most had been carrying either engine oil or gear oil (the latter at 125-150psi!) for the entire 20 years. Why did I replace them? The fittings were getting ratty. They had the original hose shop's build tags on them with 1984 dates.

Replacement with the original heavywall copper is a valid option, but I wouldn't go so far as to say that its a slam-dunk in the "superior" department.

I agree that compared to routine double-rubber hose, copper wins hands-down. But we're not talking about that. We're talking about steel-braid-reinforced hose specifically rated for fuel applications, fire resistance and significant pressure - in smaller diameters, this stuff is rated for upwards of 1000 psi, with 400psi+ ratings being typical even in larger (-10 and -16) sizes.

[Jaxfishgyd]

Hose's have come a long way. Copper was good in it's day but today's hoses are the only way to go.
Genesis hit the "nail on the head".
Go to Home Depot and look at all the new hoses made for you "land lubbers" in the plumbing section and see how many are of copper.
I did not replace all my copper piping but did put hose connections on from my sinks to the copper piping last year when I replaced my faucets and hot water heater.

[saltshaker36]

Go with the hose. I replaced all my fuel lines and fittings when I repowered 2 years ago. I used Aeroquip but wish I went with the Parker lines. Both have the same rating but the Parker has a smoother finish which makes it easier to clean. The Parker is also a lot cheaper. Most mechanics and yards I spoke with recommended the Parker but the yard that was doing the work for me used Aeroquip exclusively. You can get either from Mid Atlantic Diesel in South Jersey www.maesco.com. They will ship anywhere and even make up the lines with fittings for you. I find their prices hard to beat and buy all my fuel and oil filters from them.

Jack Sardina

[spartonboat1]

related to this thread, I had all my oil and fuel lines replaced with Aeroquip and coupla seasons ago at about $3K total parts and labor. Changed the two type of connections to a "common" connector at the same time.

These were 30 years old on a 1972 vintage 43'MY. Am told the old lines will "look" ok (at 10') but will be hardened and can go bad internally, with the rubber peeling back inside and plugging up the line...not good for lube or fuel. I had one fuel line to a gen set crack like a piece of hard candy...no flexibility left.

Side benefit has been reduced oil consumption.

I think that the screamin' gimmies (old 6-71's) get a bad rap for throwing oil around, because they run so long. Their seals and hoses get hard and start leaking, at a time when many engines would have given up. New seals/hoses helps in that regard.

[jim rosenthal]

I agree on this, as a matter of fact I am due for a fuel line replacement soon, my new stuff is Parker but there are still some old lines in there which I will have to change out.
Just curious, what does Hatteras use in their new boats, I would bet it is Aeroquip or Parker or something like it.

[Banshee36]

I did the total replacement, with the parker blue fuel lines and reuseable fittings. My rig is a 1970 and the copper that came out was fine. I would have left it in the boat,except the surveyor made me replace my fuel shut off valves, he did not like the vice grips on top if the valves to shut them off!!!
I replace the old fuel valves with full flow ball valves the I had to put just outside the rear huse bulkhead in the hatch by the salon door. Worked out well. The ball valves would not fit on top of the tank, due to their size, could not swing them. I will say that the little Kantleak valves the were on the tanks, I cannot see how a lot of fuel went thru that little(1/4 inch opening).

Jim, FYI Parker now has a crimped brass fitting for the Blue fuel line. I am using it on my transmisson coolers to test them out. The are a little less expensive than the reusables.

JW

[spartonboat1]

If replace fuel and oil lines, ABYC will stipulate color of lines related the function, which could/should be followed.

[Really]

This is really dumb. Wherever there is movement on a line you use flexible hose. When a hose is stationary you use copper. Look at airplanes and your Hatteras. Wherever you have stationary lines that are protected use metal. Flexible lines should be changed on a time basis because they can fail from the inside out. Metal lines carrying non-corrosive hydraulic fluis will last forever if they are not crushed or submerged in salt water. If they are submerged in salt water, the problem is that you shoud get the water out of your boat or prepare to replace more than just the copper lines (actually they will be among the last things to fail). Those flexible lines look great but look at all the cracks on the old ones in your boat. I stand by my statement. Replace Hatteras copper lines with copper lines. Treat the problem not the symptom!!!

[first230sl]

Hey everyone. Good info. I am about to do my own replacement of the fuel line for my '72 58 YachtFish.

I have found a source for the Aeroquip hose, but if the Parker really is as good (or close) I'd rather use it because of the reduced cost. There are lots of A1 rated hoses on the market which are much less expensive. Is the issue working pressure, life span, fire resistance?

Can someone tell me which parker hose is the appropriate one? Is it the575X?

Any other advice before I begin (fittings to use, things to watch out for, other hoses I should consider, etc).

Thanks so much!

Murray

[first230sl]

OK - I think I found the correct Parker hose. Is it the "CGH-X" line (where X varies according to I.D.)?

By the way - what is the I.D. of the correct line? 5/16? 3/8?

Let me know.

Also - still would love to get tips and tricks for the job of replacing all the fuel lines.

Thanks!

[first230sl]

Actually - looks like the CGH sheet was an old one. The current name for the same hose appears to be 221FR.

Is that the one you used?

Take care - Murray