The money pit...Steering Problem

[MikeP]

Well, it's the same oil since it is a common system. So if it's OK at one helm, it should be OK in the other.

However, a pump could get gunked up with old incorrect fluid or moisture and stiffen up. Since the fluid doesn't circulate through the system constantly (hardly at all), it wouldn't "clean" itself very well, even if new (correct) fluid was added. Might be worth purging the entire system, being sure that ALL old fluid is out, and then refill with 5606 and bleed it.

Though anything is possible, it's unlikely that it's a pump problem. The Hynautic helm pumps are very simple ball-bearing type pumps that, other than outer seal failure occasionally, are pretty much bullletproof. By "simple," I mean they are conceptually simple but they have quite a few parts (ball bearings/springs, etc. and can be reassembled "out of time" where they won't pump effectively. Normally, there is no need to disassemble a pump since the seals can be replaced without doing so. Of course if a pump somehow had a lot of moisture in it, the fittings/bearings/orfices could be seriously damaged. Again, seems fairly unlikely.

[yachtsmanbill]

I agree on the simplicity part. Ive had my teleflex apart on my Roamer. Is there anything to flush it with, like mineral spirits or brake fluid (for the moisture, if any?) ws

[MikeP]

Denatured alcohol is a common "demoisturizing" solvent and readily/cheaply available at hardware. Just be sure whatever you use is completely cleared out. Probably the best thing to do, though a PITA, is to flush the system with solvent, then blow it out with air pressure/helm pump rotation, then fill/bleed with 5606, then flush that out with air pressure and refill/bleed with 5606 again.

[yachtsmanbill]

The old 58 has a mile of tubing! I think I'll try a changeout / flush first. I have a feeling old Bubba used anything he could find to top it off! ws

[mike]

[QUOTE=MikeP;86787]Well, it's the same oil since it is a common system. So if I mean they are conceptually simple but they have quite a few parts (ball bearings/springs, etc. and can be reassembled "out of time" where they won't pump effectively. it's OK at one helm, it should be OK in the other.
QUOTE]


Mike, how do you know if the pump was reassembled "out of time"? For example are there different length plungers, or some other marks or indicators??

[MikeP]

Mike,

I'm 2600 miles from my boat and all my reference material, including the Hynautic service data which explains disassembly/reassambly BUT, from memory when I did this a couple of years ago... the top cover has to be properly aligned with the bottom portion with the steering pump valves (ball bearings/cam assembly) ALSO in the correct position relative to the case alignment. All of this can be assembled and bolted together in any alignment and it will appear OK but the cams that actuate the balls/springs will not be in the proper position in the case for full activation of the pumping cycle. Though not the same, of course, it is conceptually similar to timing a camshaft on a car - the cam, timing gears, and crank can all be installed in any configuration and look fine but it it is not timed in the proper relation, it won't work

The instructions used to be available on a website as well but now I can't find that reference on line.

[mike]

Mike, thanks for info.

[Trojan]

Do as you like but transmission fluid is a cleaning fluid and a solvent. Great for cleaning your injectors. You should never need to drain and purge unless you contaminate it with some strange crap. Brake a line at the pressure side of the helm and run some off in a can and see what you have. Flushing with a strange solvent could create all kinds of trouble. Like swollen or dissolved O rings, leaking gaskets. Not a good idea. If you want to flush it. Flush it with the same fluid that belongs in it. Just don't ingest any new air.
It sounds like your not bleeding long enough and your re ingesting a slug of air from way down the line. Air is the only thing that will stop the unit from working other than a badly warn part. If you can get it to work and soon after it quits. I would look hard on how I'm bleeding it for air.

BILL