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  1. #11

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    Thanks all for your help.

  2. #12

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    I just got off the telephone with Reverso. They said to me that replacing my impeller pumps with gear pumps (whether AC or DC) would not really that much of a difference in pumping the cold oil in and the breakers popping. There suggestion (which of course makes sense) is to get the cold oil that is to pumped in to room temperature 70-75 degrees and the problem disappears. I guess putting the 5 gallon buckets in the engine room with some heat overnight would solve all of the problems. Inelegant but inexpensive as well.

  3. #13

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    You can also get a magnetic oil pan heater to warm the stuff up in the engine as well. Nevertheless, 40W is 40W. As far as the new stuff is concerned, grab a blow drier and warm the stuff up OR get a real pump and let IT do the work IMHO! ws

  4. #14

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    I have a built-in 120vac gear type oil change pump. It won't pump cold 40 wt oil. Usually I just pump out the old oil after warming up the engine and add new oil through the oil filler on the valve cover. It's kind of a PITA but since it doesn't occur very often, it's not that big a deal to me. I personally wouldn't expend any electrical (or other) power just to heat new pails of oil.

    One thing that I have thought about but haven't fooled with is larger hoses. The oil change hoses on our boat are 3/8." I'd bet that larger hoses would make a notable difference in the ability to pump cold oil.

    Another one of those "someday I'll look into it" things.

  5. #15

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    Ya know, Ive noticed with my pump that I use 3/8 in and 1/4 out and the pump has a chance to build a little pressure and hence a bit more volume.
    I bet 1/2 and 3/8 would really help as well. I as well, refill through the valve cover with 1 gallon jugs. Once your at that point, its no more trouble than changing the filters etc. ws

  6. #16

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    Just from a cost perspective (as if that really matters given what we spend on our boats anyway), I figure it cost me about $20 more per change to buy singles rather than pails. I guess it would take more than 5 or 6 years, or more, to break even if I bought a new pump. I just hate holding those singles in the cold weather and watching the molasses come out. Now, if truth be told, what I would really like is a fitting that screws onto the pail with some sort of disposable hose that goes to the bottom of the pail so that the oil slimed hose can get tossed and the fitting to the top of the pail just unscrews.

  7. #17

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    Theres an advantage to doing a lot of the nasty stuff in january when theres no rush. This is Godzillas blow drier. 150,000 btu propane with an outside air source. No odor, no fumes, and on a thermostat. A 40 lb cylinder lasts about 20-30 hours at 75F depending on the ambient. It also makes everything warm to the touch so varnish and paint are dry by the next morning.
    SAFETY NOTE !! I always close the gas AND unplug the boat AND turn of the DC mains when I go home in the evening. ws
    Last edited by yachtsmanbill; 10-31-2007 at 08:18 PM.

  8. #18

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    Good for marshmellows too.

  9. #19

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    In Chicago its Italian SAH-SIDGE and toasted bread, slathered with bilge grease !! LOL ws

  10. #20

    Re: Oil Change Pump Redux

    another option would be to plumb in a circuit that recirculates from the exit of the pump back to the intake. If you aim for like 50% recirc, the pumping of the oil may generate enough heat to warm it up. It would take a little experimenting on valve settings, but I bet you could get it to work.

    The problem with cold oil is that the motor just can't handle the "bite" the impeller is taking out. Poor motor, it can't cash the checks the impeller is writing!

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