Awgrip roll and tip techniques

[mike]

FWIW, one of the largest yacht yards in the Netherlands uses the roll & tip method. They claim a thicker coat and deeper sheen when applied by this method. On 100' yachts they use a team of 5 guys working at two levels to keep a wet edge. There is a full article on their technique in one of the industry's professional periodicals.

[Captainfred]

I have used Sterling for the past 18yrs but I understand that Awlgrip is just as user friendly and provides similar results. I have found that using foam rollers and tipping off with a good bristle brush, not foam, (3" - 4") works well. Always work with a helper (one to roll and one to brush). Have alot of rollers and clean buckets handy and don't mix large batches of catalyzed paint. You don't want the stuff gelling (kicking) when your 3/4 through the job. If using scaffolding have a third person to move or remove the scaffolding as you work your way around the boat. Perfect the technique on a 4 x 8 sheet of wood or masonite prior to putting material on the boat. You have to find the "sweet spot" of applying enough material to cover but not so much that you wind up with sags. Do not overwork the brushing portion. Tipping means exactly that. One or two light swipes and move on. Don't let the guy (gal) who is rolling get too far ahead. Read the instructions provided by the manufacturer and DON'T deviate from the instructions. They have put alot of time and money into R&D so don't be mixing in product that does not belong in the mix (Penetrol, alcohol, acetone, etc). I guess thats about all of my 2 cents worth and it is time for my nap. Good luck with the project.

Captainfred

[Brian Degulis]

I prime if it needs it then sand. I use the brushing reducer sometimes mixed with a little spraying reducer if the temperature is below 70 or if there isn't any breeze. I always use a little of the inhibited x138 acelerator. I put the first coat on using high quality short nap roller and bristle brush. When it's touch dry maybe a little beyond that the second coat goes on then usually a third. I'm not overly carfull about the first 2-3 coats then I wait at least 12 hours sand that down and carefully put on one final finish coat. The first 2-3 coats gives you the hide and the last coat gives you the smooth shine. It is absouloutly possible to get the same quality rolling and tiping as you get spraying it's just a lot more time consuming as far as the paint aplication goes. It's all about the reducer and matching it to the conditions and temperatures your working in big flat areas have to be slowed down or you can't keep up with it. Smaller more complex areas need to be acelerated to avoid runs and get coverage.

Brian

[bobk]

I got some good advice from a pro in Rock Hall, MD. he said use only a badger hair brush for tipping, and a 'candy stripe' roller for rolling. Clean both frequently so they don't get paint set up in them. It almost takes a dedicated person (wife) to keep up with brush and roller cleaning. To take fuzz out of the roller, he suggested wrapping it in duct tape, squeezing and then pulling off the tape, and repeating the process untill no more fuzz comes off. Tipping should be vertical. When I first did a trawler this way, most people could not tell it was not a spray job. The key is to thinn the mix enough so it 'levels' well.

The next paint job was done by a pro in Florida. he used Home Box hot dog rollers and didn't do much tipping. He got a better job than I did. Again, thin well and prepare well. The only issues with the pro's job was some spots that were not sanded and preped well lost adhesion. The pro touched them up well enough to suite me.

Bob

[mikfin]

Hey, this is really helpful.

A few questions. Does mixing a little spray reducer to the brush reducer speed up the drying time? What does the x138 accelerator do to the process? What are candy stripe and Home Box hot dog rollers, and where are they sold? Also, how wet should the brush be kept, and with what, paint or reducer? Iit sounds like some some people can roll the paint without tipping and get good results. Is this done by thinning the paint more, or something else?

Thanks,

Mike

[Brian Degulis]

Yes the spraying reducer is faster evaporating so it sets up quicker but to much or if it's very hot or windy will stop it from flowing out. That's the delicate balance slow enough to work with it and get it to flow out and fast enough to prevent runs. Pretty much the same principal as thining paint to spray but more critical when brushing because you have more control when spraying. The x 138 is an acelerator it acelerates the cure keep in mind it also lowers the pot life. It has very little efect on how the paint goes on only how quickly it cures. I always use a little much less than the full ad that way I can do my final sanding after an overnight dry and it sands without cloging. The other reason is that on complex areas where you might not be able to brush it out completly and end up with some thick spots like in the corners it will still cure hard.

Brian