Lower station Windows on 1980 43' DCFB

[Will]

I'm installing new windshield windows on a 1980 43' DCFB and am having problems with the material I ordered from SAM's. (This is not a complaint against SAM's)

There didn't seem to be any backing on the two side windows when I removed them. But, the center one did have a rubbery substance as backing. The old clips seemed to be about 1/8" thick and were like a hard but pliable rubbery plastic.

First I set in the 1/4" wide backing I got from SAM's. Although I ordered felt, the material I received looks like a black foam material. The material I received for the clips, is about 1/2" wide, about 3/16" thick in the center and tapers to about 1/16" or less on the edges.

The problem is that I can't get the clips into the slot on the frame without pushing so hard that I'm afraid I'll break the glass. I'm wondering if I have the wrong material or am just afraid to push on the glass hard enough to put the clips in place.

Any word from folks who have been here before will be much appreciated.
Thanks - Will

[Will]

Steve McPherson says;

All of the material is correct. What is called "felt" is now a polyurethane foam type material. The original clip material is NLA and the material used now is thicker in the middle. The clips must be ground down in order to be inserted into the slots and fit over the glass. They should only put slight pressure on the glass, holding it in place against the felt until the caulking cures. Some people don't use the clips at all since the caulking when cured, is often enough to hold everything together.

So; here I go!!
Will

[Jaxfishgyd]

Let us know how the job went. And an idea what the cost ended up being as I need to replace two on my windows (1 being on the fold out middle position).

[chuck@waterwaysystems.com]

Will,
We call the clips you are referring to a "keeper wedge" or "keeper shim". When installing them in our windows, I use a small piece of acrylic and a naugahyde hammer to force the wedge into the groove in the frame. A rubber mallet could be substituted for the naugahyde hammer. Lay the acrylic piece on the glass and tap with the soft hammer until the wedge is inserted.

Do not do this with laminated glass as it is not strong enough to withstand the blow. As long as you have tempered glass, which is what all your windows should be, you wont break it. I can send you a cross section drawing of how our windows go together. Proper installation of the butyl rope seals the window 100%. All the adhesive caulks can create quite a mess if you have to replace a glass lite.

email me at chuck@waterwaysystems.com for the cross section drawing.

[Will]

Thanks to all who replied.

The cost for the felt (which is actually a 1/4" wide strip of foam rubber), material for the clips and and the exterior vinyl trim was about $85.00 from SAMS. I used 3 tubes of 3m 101 (recommended by SAMS).

However, my original windows are laminated which I still prefer over tempered glass. I broke one while taking it out. Steve at SAM's said to use SOLEX glass. However, no glass dealers in my area could get it in laminated form. The dealer I used ordered Limenate which is the same color but laminated. It cost about $200.00.

Per Steve's recommendation, I installed the felt strip on the frame then laid the glass in place. Next, I taped the caulking boundaries on both the frame and the glass. Then I laid in the 3M 101 with the caulking gun. Rather than use the clip material I got from SAMs, I made some clips from various thicknesses of plastic purchased from my local plastics dealer. This enabled the clips to hold firmly without having to tap them into position. All clips were covered with caulking. Lastly, I removed the masking tape which left a clean caulking line on the glass and prevented the 3M 101 from getting into the channel for the vinyl trim.

A week later - no leaks. Now if it will only last for another 5- 10 years.

Will