Revisiting the window trim/fuzzies topic...

[skrmetta90]

Ok, so I read the whole discussion on the window fuzzies, what they are for, and the tips on dealing with them. I have a different issue...sort of. On our recently purchased 1973 45C, the windows have been made "inoperable" and the previous owner completely filled the interior side of the tracks with a combination of caulk products....a little clear silicone, a little 5200, some other stuff I can't identify, etc--all of it is mixed together and bubbling up. I have started to peel it out. I am finding some moisture trapped in between layers. My fuzzies are gone...there are a few petrified hairs, and that's it.

We had HARD rain here in Miami this past weekend, and I do not see anyplace where the side windows are failing from the outside--so I am thinking maybe it's condensation that may have built up on the windows over time? Anyway, once I clean out the tracks--[U]does anyone see any reason whatsoever why I should put caulk back in there[/U]? (I am sitting here telling myself "he must have a reason behind doing this", but I can't figure it out).

I have always thought when "waterproofing", you keep water OUT from the OUTSIDE. If/when these windows leak, I'd think it's better to see the water coming in and running down a wall rather than having it come in and get trapped by caulk and rotting something away before I know there is a problem. What do you think?

Also, that aluminum extrusion/frame on the interior side of the window--is that all one piece? If that comes out, does the glass come out too? I am just trying to figure out a way to make this cleaning process a little easier.

I can post pictures this afternoon if that will help yall understand what I'm talking about.

[rswirtz]

Ewwww, what a mess.

I just did my port windows, it was a bear but got it done. The windows came out by lifting the outside window up as high as it would go and pushing the bottom out, next, the inside window was lifted up and pulled in.

As Paul suggested, when I do the star side, I'm going to dremel a slot into the frame to slide the fuzzies in.

Good luck getting all that junk out. No reason to seal it back up, the frames drain outside and overboard at the aft side.

Rick

[Angela]

Some goof did the same thing to a couple of my windows...."caulked" them shut (I guess they didn't understand the purpose of the fuzzies), filling the tracks AND the water drain hole with something the consistency and stubborness of 5200. Now, the water cannot drain to the outside. We, too, will be having to dig that stuff out before we can even begin to think about replacing the fuzz and glides.

[Nonchalant1]

Maybe your frames and windows are OK, like mine, and some genius P.O. just didn't understand how they worked and caulked them, which is stupid.
There are weep slots on the outside on the window frames at the bottom of the glass/fuzzies channels. The inside frame is much higher than the weep slot, so all water that runs into the bottom of any channel runs outside through the weep slots. Works fine in even very hard rains and huge splashing from big waves. The problem is that the channels or the weep slots get blocked by crud, mold, algae, or broken fuzzy strips and then the channel fills up and gets water indside the boat.

First, try leaving the windows in and cleaning out all the channels and weep slots of everything. Then spray liberally from outside to see if it stays dry inside. If it does, just buy new fuzzies and install them. The fuzzies really just make the windows smooth and harder to slide so they don't slide when the boat rocks.

Good luck!

Doug Shuman

[Jimmy Watts]

With any luck the caulk was put in just to keep the glass from moving, to keep water for somehow splashing in over the splash guard or trying to help heat/cool the inside of the boat. Hopefully the caulking will come out in one strip as most people do not clean properly before applying caulk. If and when you do get the glass out, look for a thin fiberglass looking strip inside the fuzz channel, (hard to see). It would be my guess that the fuzz residual was not removed before the caulk was applied. Once you remove everything, use a narrow wire brush and clean tracks as good as possible, wash out with good amount of pressure, (be careful where you aim the hose with no glass in place). You can do a simple leak check on the bottom track of sliders by taping the weep hole closed and filling the track with water. Go inside and look for any possible leaks. This method is not full proof but pretty reliable.

If you do not have any leaks, before installing the fuzz, use a short piece (one inch), put it into the track and see if it will slide up and down each track fairly easy. This can save headaches down the road.

If you do have leaks, well that is another story. I can help you there also if you would like. I can make replacement aluminum window frames and/or fixed windows utilizing composite material. The composite frame can be installed and become one with the hull of your boat eliminating(99.99999% chance), (just like a Dr. tells you after a vasectomy) of a potential leak problem forever, (I do not use 5200, it does not hold as good). They can be painted any color you want and they have no screw caps to look at. If anyone is interested in seeing some pictures of several jobs, email me at jwatts14@earthlink.net and I will email you some back. Hope the above information helps some.

Jimmy Watts

[Angela]

After a closer look, we think the filler used in our fuzz tracks is epoxy and not caulk. I only wish it were caulk.

The the old fuzz is still in there, so that might be to our advantage in getting the epoxy out.

[SKYCHENEY]

Jimmy,
Why not just post a few pictures here for all to see? I know you don't want it to look like an advertisement or anything, but I believe that most of us would be interested to see any product or service that improves our Hatts. I see no harm in posting a few pics of completed jobs.

[jim rosenthal]

Caulking in there? the previous owner did not do you any favors, that is for sure.

If it IS caulk, you might try Anti-Bond, which will get 5200 loose from the surface it's on. I used dental picks and hooks to get the old stuff out, but all I had in there was the fuzzy material. You also have to clean out the tracks on the bottom where the Delrin material goes that the windows slide on...

I did one side one year, and the other side the next. It is not a pleasant job, nor does it go fast. Good luck.

[Maynard Rupp]

Those window track assemblies are all one piece, welded at the corners. There is no possibility of a leak from the frame to the inside unless the frame is corroded through at the bottom. This is unlikely. If you have leaks showing on the wall panelling, it is almost always coming from the multitude of screws uses to hold the frames in. I take each screw out and shove a caulking tube tip in the hole and squeeze some 3M 4200 in each hole. Now just replace the screw and wipe the excess off with acetone. I have never had a problem, either getting the old fuzzies out or the new ones in. I would also pop the old plastic rubbing strips out and tap new ones in. Once everything is out, vacuum and flush the aluminum track area completly. Next install the rubbing strips by tapping them in place with a narrow wood block and small hammer. Lastly pull the fusies in through the original cutouts. I use a pair of needle nose pliers here. Now re-install the glass and you are good to go for 5 years.

[skrmetta90]

Got most of the caulk/5200 out of the track....now I will vacuum (and flush if I have to). There are a few tiny holes corroded thru the aluminum trim in mine, so I'll have to do something about getting those closed up. It's looking a lot better already. Keep ya posted.