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Thread: Shower Pump

  1. #1

    Shower Pump

    I have one of the 53 MY's where the two rear head's share 1 shower in between them...this shower has a 32V pump that is used to pump the shower water out. I have rebuilt this pump 3 times in the last couple of years....I think the pieces just don't fit together right....after it runs for a period of time that various pieces start to come undone....I have used locktite and a number of other solutions....in any event I'm telling you this because I have exhausted my patience with rebuilding and trying to get the pump to stay together. I believe most recently I have burned out the motor on it which is the most expensive part anyway so instead of dealing with this unit, I'm getting a new one. the question is should I get another standard 32v pump and keep it hooked to a manual switch that I pull when showering or is there a better solution? Whatever I do, be it the same type of pump or something different, I want it all to be new. I want trouble free showering for as long as possible b/c as it's been, I'm going nuts. Any suggestions? Thanks for you help in advance!
    The Traveler
    1969 53' Classic MY
    Scott Prosser

  2. #2

    Re: Shower Pump

    Here you go
    http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new...l.cfm?id=RUL98

    You could easily make one for a 32v system.
    Rule 32v 2000
    Super switch(auto)
    1/4 starboard
    3m 5200
    1986 52 Convertible
    Island Son

  3. #3

    Re: Shower Pump

    mine uses a typical shower sump system similar to ones that can be purchased at west marine etc. The problem is-the 32v systems are pricey. I simply made one using a 32v bilge pump and float switch mounted in the plastic shower sump box.

  4. #4

    Re: Shower Pump

    the only problem with one of those boxes is it has to be located lower than (below) the shower drain so water flows down to it and is then pumped out. I'm not sure where I can locate given that requirement. any suggestions?
    The Traveler
    1969 53' Classic MY
    Scott Prosser

  5. #5

    Re: Shower Pump

    Scott , I just a few seconds ago ordered a new Rule 2000,32V and float switch for my aft head. Go to www.hamiltonmarine.com they have the best price I could find. Use a float switch then you don't need to turn it on and off and it will act as another bilge pump also. Mine is in a hole under the aft bed which requires me to hang upside down up to my waist to get to it . Real fun with a flashlight and tools dropping . Gotta be careful who's around when you do this one. At least the bilge monster gets fed. How does all that stuff you drop in the bilge disappear??..........Pat

  6. #6

    Re: Shower Pump

    any bilge pump will do, but i think a 2000gph is not just an overkill but it will flow back more water than a smaller one, resulting in frequent cycling.

    scott, i dont' understand your concern about the level / location of the pump. alll sumps need to be lower than the shower unless you have some diaphrgam pump but that's not a standard setup... PO mod ?

    i also have the single shower shared buy the both heads. my sump in in the stbd ER, under the forward part of the engine. that location works fine. I think some 53s or 58s have the sump under the master SR floor.

    i used to have an atwood 32v sump which failed. i replaced it with a 12v rule sump, which was ok since i have a 12v bank for the inverter and a few other things on the boat.

    if you can find a small 32v pump (under 1000gph) you can jsut put that with a float switch in your existing sump or any plastic box that woudl be big enough....
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  7. #7

    Re: Shower Pump

    Hey there,

    yes, I have a diaphragm pump currently...I guess I thought that was original b/c it sure looks old! that is what I have rebuilt numerous times. I thought this was the standard set up given that amount of space below the drain on the shower is limited. I'll measure areas tonight for placement of sump box & pump. Thanks!
    The Traveler
    1969 53' Classic MY
    Scott Prosser

  8. #8

    Re: Shower Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by Pascal
    any bilge pump will do, but i think a 2000gph is not just an overkill but it will flow back more water than a smaller one, resulting in frequent cycling.
    I agree but I have never found a 32v pump smaller than the Rule 2000. Rule is the best and I would not go with anything else. 12v would be the cheapest way to go it is a PITA if you do not have 12v or need to run wires a great distance....
    1986 52 Convertible
    Island Son

  9. #9

    Re: Shower Pump

    that's what i thought... problem with a 2000 is that the hose is larger and the pump itseld will hold more water. when it stops, all that water rushes back and i woudlnt' be surprised if that alone will be enough to lift the float high enough. especially if the hose is pretty long... and adding a check valve is going to be a major source of headaches...

    my blueprints show the sump pump under the master SR for the 58YF and under the front of the stbd engine for the 53MY... hose is routed under the VIP head and in the bilge... actaully, I'm wondering if it woudln't make any sense to put the sump under the stuffing box... that woudl also catch any drip and keep the stbd bilge dry :-)
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  10. #10

    Re: Shower Pump

    There’s nothing wrong with using a big pump in this application since it will also double as an extra bilge pump. I set up my fwd bilge this way, now a high water pump for this compartment is unnecessary.

    Good point about the backflow Pascal, but there shouldn’t be any issues with the float switch, I don’t have any problems with my set up. The pump will be cycling anyway; water will be coming in from the shower drain…until the shower is over.
    Trav
    45C 447, Series I, '72
    Pensacola, Fl

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