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  1. #1

    Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    I had a pinhole raw water leak in my HVAC cooling line and upon inspection the brass had deterioated from the inside. I have a splitter of sorts that takes and splits the incomming line 5 ways. Of course this has to be made with connectors, Ts, and elbows. It is all brass parts.

    This got me to thinking should you use brass fittings on a raw waterline. Plastic/pvc seems like a poor choice and bronze is hard to come by. What do ya'll use?
    1986 52 Convertible
    Island Son

  2. #2

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    Either cupronickel or schedule 80 pvc.

  3. #3

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    For me I use nothing but bronze where raw water is concerned. My hat has all bronze for raw water and all but the brand new fittings are 1/4 of a century old and still going strong. My shaft logs and stuffing boxes are original and look like new after my repower...had to clean them up but they look new now. To me that is a teatement in itself for bronze. I will pay for true quality...even if its not cheap. Think about it...buy plastic and a few years later it usually reaches its endpoint..buy bronze and it keeps going and going...and going...

  4. #4

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    Raw water and below the water line or on an intake should never be plastic of any kind. Brass and bronze are available and need to be bonded but last a long time if properly done.
    Scott
    41C117 "Hattatude"
    Port Canaveral Florida.


    Marine Electronics and Electrical Products Distributor.

  5. #5

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    a few months ago, i was cleaning the AC strainer and it simply fell off the sea cock... everything was bronze except a male male niple made of brass.... which crroded despite bonding.

    problem is that you can't find bronze male/male niples... only brass. or you need to use 2 bronze fittings with a short piece of hose...

    if you have to use brass, make sure you replace them every 2 or 3 years, or dissasemble them for inspection as the corrosion happened in the threads...

    forget PVC in such critical applications, marelon on the other hand is used and supposed to be very good.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  6. #6

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    I believe the question was about a water manifold. The only things that last in that application are Cupronickel like the orig Cruisair manifold or schedule 80! Even Hatt used the PVC for manifolds on many models. All this no plastic stuff is funny. You own a plastic boat. How many have Lectra Sans? yup all plastic and slip joints with pvc glue. Sealand pumps, more plastic. March A/C pumps, more plastic, most Y valves, Jabsco macerator pumps? Shurflo or Jabsco washdown pumps. Sea strainers? knotmeter paddlewheels.
    dripless shaft seals?

    Pipe nipples should be avoided in A/C plumbing. nothing new there. Dave

  7. Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    Quote Originally Posted by captddis
    I believe the question was about a water manifold. The only things that last in that application are Cupronickel like the orig Cruisair manifold or schedule 80! Even Hatt used the PVC for manifolds on many models. All this no plastic stuff is funny. You own a plastic boat. How many have Lectra Sans? yup all plastic and slip joints with pvc glue. Sealand pumps, more plastic. March A/C pumps, more plastic, most Y valves, Jabsco macerator pumps? Shurflo or Jabsco washdown pumps. Sea strainers? knotmeter paddlewheels.
    dripless shaft seals?

    Pipe nipples should be avoided in A/C plumbing. nothing new there. Dave
    This is what had confused me. I was also thinking of the manifold for the water, not the actual raw water intake ( seacock ).

    For the water system on Boss Lady, we are using the SeaTech system. The Manifolds are very easy to configure to your special needs. Just order the appropriate snap together parts and it is done.

  8. #8

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    if you have to use brass, make sure you replace them every 2 or 3 years, or dissasemble them for inspection as the corrosion happened in the threads..
    You don't want to use brass use 316 s.s it is right next to bronze on the chart much better then brass and hold up just as long as the bronze..
    Dan
    End Of The Line II
    1967 34C

    EOTL II Rebuild Web Page

    ><(((º>´¯`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸><((((º>`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸><(( (( º>¸¸.•´¯`•.¸¸¸><(((º>

  9. #9

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    Quote Originally Posted by captddis
    I believe the question was about a water manifold. The only things that last in that application are Cupronickel like the orig Cruisair manifold or schedule 80!
    While I was typing that out I could not come up with the term "manifold" to save my life, I kept coming up with thermostat

    I only had the existing to work with and I could modify it but I was not sure if that is the correct way to do it. I have 2 manifolds, 1 incomming and 1 outgoing, they both have had the same problem and I was thinking of custom milling a new pair.
    1986 52 Convertible
    Island Son

  10. #10

    Re: Brass, bronze, stainless, or plastic?

    You can buy them from Cruisair for about 50.00. They usually last 20 years +.
    Or you can make them from the Schedule 80, which is almost indestructable.
    I have had good results with copper plumbing sweat fittings and last for years , though not as long as the cupronickel. Avoid pipe nipples as they are the weak link and fail often. Hatt used to use monel nipples and they lasted indefinately. If you can find these then you are good forever.

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