Jack/Orca's Repower Thread

[ADaily3224]

Re-power:

Maynard:

This information may be helpful.
1. Props are original just tuned a bit, 26x25 should be the same as yours.
2. Shafts are also original 1.75"
3. Through hull's are 2" no strainers, I have the screens (wedges) they work excellent.
4. Engines 6 cyl 3116 TI Cat 350HP plenty of room. No height issues at all.
5. Original stringer beds. New mounts welded to bed.
6. Transmissions Twin Disc MG 5050A GEAR RATIO 2.04 to 1
7. Batteries, new cabling, 2 8D's you need to move the one outboard of the Stbd engine, to a different location. It's very difficult to service once the taller diesel engines are installed.
8. Exhaust, mine is side dumping, size increased to 6" inch, Aqua lift mufflers, they are very quiet, no station wagon effect. You may want to consider this as an option as you don't have to tear the boat up in case you have to increase the tube diameter.
9. Shaft logs are stock and as you said they work fine.
10. Generator is Westerbek, quiet, fits where the original Onan sat.
11. Gauges, VDO, would not choose them if I were you. I think Jim has a good recommendation.
12. Racor filters, work fine but up north fuel isn't the issue as it is down south.
I'm happy to provide pictures, if you think they would help. Engines were installed in one piece. 350 HP is OK but more would be better. The second generation 36 needs more power than the earlier models. I don't believe my gears are down angle but you can check with Twin Disc to make sure.

Tony D

[34Hatt]

As for strainers I too use just the wedge they work great No need for those big strainers that just get in the way.
Also Like Dr Jim said wolverine pan heaters not big $$$ so do them now, might be harder to do them later work GREAT. Athens sells them also.

[JTS]

The shafts on the 36C Series II are 10 degrees down from the stringers.

[Maynard Rupp]

Re-power:

Maynard:

This information may be helpful.
1. Props are original just tuned a bit, 26x25 should be the same as yours.
2. Shafts are also original 1.75"
3. Through hull's are 2" no strainers, I have the screens (wedges) they work excellent.
4. Engines 6 cyl 3116 TI Cat 350HP plenty of room. No height issues at all.
5. Original stringer beds. New mounts welded to bed.
6. Transmissions Twin Disc MG 5050A GEAR RATIO 2.04 to 1
7. Batteries, new cabling, 2 8D's you need to move the one outboard of the Stbd engine, to a different location. It's very difficult to service once the taller diesel engines are installed.
8. Exhaust, mine is side dumping, size increased to 6" inch, Aqua lift mufflers, they are very quiet, no station wagon effect. You may want to consider this as an option as you don't have to tear the boat up in case you have to increase the tube diameter.
9. Shaft logs are stock and as you said they work fine.
10. Generator is Westerbek, quiet, fits where the original Onan sat.
11. Gauges, VDO, would not choose them if I were you. I think Jim has a good recommendation.
12. Racor filters, work fine but up north fuel isn't the issue as it is down south.
I'm happy to provide pictures, if you think they would help. Engines were installed in one piece. 350 HP is OK but more would be better. The second generation 36 needs more power than the earlier models. I don't believe my gears are down angle but you can check with Twin Disc to make sure.

Tony D

Thanks Tony...That info is a big help. Because our boat is a Convertable and not a sedan, both of our batteries are in the middle between the engines. Our generator is under the cockpit floor.

[Maynard Rupp]

The shafts on the 36C Series II are 10 degrees down from the stringers.

Thanks, but I am shocked. One of the guys quoting on our project supposidly measured them at 7 degrees. Now I will have to check. 10 degrees would certainly expand our available gearboxes and save money for sure. Thanks.

[Jackman]

Well....

Two repower locations....two visits and I think I finally decided which place I'm going to go with. Originally I thought the guys over at Tolchester. I factored in the location and price ect...but for the same price Carey Diesel, who do many, many repowers like this because of all the Lewes, Rehoboth Beach, Bowers Beach and commercial businesses I decided to go with them. They have done a lot of work on boats for people I know of, maybe not personally met and they took the time to explain a lot of things to me that I think are important and in some cases may save me money in the long run. They are only 1hr from my house and 1 hour from where the boat is located. They offered to follow me every step of the repower..., they're allowing my Dad and I to do the work but if we run into problems they will help out. Actually it gets better....they are allowing me to bring my boat to them either by towing it up the Del Bay or by road with one of their trailers and setting it in their yard. The trip up will only be probably about $300 or so but they are not charging me to keep the boat there, to use their crane to put the motors in and out as I make the mounts and bed them and a couple of other things as well. If I deal with the other folks I really only get the engines delivered to me and the support isn’t probably going to be there because they are so far away. I think that was the deciding factor because I could use all the advice I can get because I want to do the work…something I always wanted to accomplish with the Hat.

Anyhow, I went between the 330b’s and 370’s all day back and forth to the point I was going nuts. I spoke with the folks at Carey and they told me that with the 370’s I’d be better off changing shafts to 1.75” because of the safety factor and that having those engines probably would not increase my cruise enough to make me spend the extra money for both the 370’s and new shafts. He also noted that with my current struts I could not have 1.75’ shafts because I need to bore them out and there is not enough room based on the fact that I use flatfish bearings in my struts. So there would be a growing list of things to change if I went with the 370’s…not to mention the 330’s will probably last longer if well taken care of as far as maintenance ect. He also said that I do not need to go with the 1.75to1 tranny because all that will do is give me a quicker hole shot and I am not a hotrodder. The throttles come up smoothly when I get moving. He said the 1.5 to 1 is a perfect match for that engine and this boat.

I am pretty impressed with these people. He’s been in the business for a very long time and knows his stuff about diesels both marine applications and road applications. They even have a small Tavern in the tiny town they have their business that supposedly has the best crabs…I know they have good, cold tapped beer and cheesesteaks because I had that yesterday. The crabs were outa season! I can go there when I need a break.

When the repower is done all I have to do is have them put her in the slings and drop her in and take her back down the Del Bay where I normally keep her. No road trip!

By the way…I saw the installation Tolchester did on a 32’ just like mine. They fit fine. Now all I have to do is start buying parts!

[Jackman]

Curious about some bronze intake hardware...What's better..using the flanged type valve with the 3 screws or the bronze intake with the big backing nut...then putting a bronze valve on it? This is all two inch.

[jim rosenthal]

Hi Jack- you want the bronze seacock with the three bolts that hold it to the boat. Then through-hull then screws into that. You may have to cut the threaded part of the through-hull shorter, depending on how long it is and how thick the hull is. This is the best installation. I think you will also need a backing plate; best material if you can find it is a piece of 1/4" fiberglass scrap cut to fit, between the seacock and the inside of the hull. Everything gets caulked with 4200 and assembled, give it an hour or two to set up, THEN tighten it up. If you tighten it all too soon, you squeeze all the sealant out. I've been there.

Carey Diesel have been around a long time and have a good rep. You should be fine with them. Sounds like they are going out of their way to make this happen, which is a good thing.

[Jackman]

So the flanged seacock type that has three screws sealed and screwed from the inside. From the outside a thruhull that screws (its threaded) into the seacock. The thru-hull also has to be screwed to the hull?

I'm trying to find the parts and order them today. I want to get as much done before I transport the boat to the boatyard so most of the work is on the inside of the boat.

[Jackman]

Those of you who went cummins...did you use the full guage cluster or did you break it up? Just curious.