Rudder Bearings?

[ThirdHatt]

Before I can change the bearings I have to be able to get the rudders out! I have loosened the collars, removed the set screws, coated and coated with PB, spread the rudder arm, heated the rudder post/arm and they will not come down. Port will move about 3/4" down and stop.

I don;t know what else could be holding them up. What am I missing here?

[Nonchalant1]

There are set screws in the side of the collar that rides on the rudder table. The collar is inbetween the rudder arm and the rudder table. This collar acts as a bearing as it's greased bottom surface rides on the rudder table holding the weight of the rudder as it turns. At least that's the way mine is.

Clean off the sides of that collar and you'll see the set screws, which on mine are unscrewed with an allen wrench.

Doug

[luckydave215]

Even after removing all the collars, etc mine needed "persuasion"

[ThirdHatt]

Thanks guys. I'll look closer for alan set screws on side of the collar. I sure hope I overlooked those! I did take out two standard flat blade set screws out of the rudder arm(?) and loosened the collar so that it slides up and down easily. It seems that possibly the key is binding the rudder from dropping. Do either of you happen to remember removing the key to drop them? I'm going to try to slide it up and out and see if that helps.

I really did use quite a bit of "persuasion" in my previous attemts by the generous yet respectful use of a mall and a torch. SOMETHING is holding them in there. More set screws, the key, or maybe it's possible that the stuffing box is binding the post enough to resist significant removal efforts. Only time and more trial and error will tell come Monday!

[luckydave215]

If you haven't first removed the packing/packing nut, they are acting like a "Chinese finger trap" and holding the rudder stock in place even if the rudder stock doesn't have grooves worn in it from the packing, which it probably does. Pick out ALL the packing first.

[mopester]

did you get your rudders out and repacked???
i took some pictures of mine out of the boat from different angles.
i also took some pictures of the rudder,collar,set screws, and plate that the collar rides on.

Just wondering how you made out. I am currently having """discusions""" with the inquiring minds that are telling me to set it back in with 5200 instead of bedding compound.

[ThirdHatt]

Mopester, I have not succeeded in dropping the rudders myself so unfortunately I have admitted defeat (knowing my limits) and turned the job over to the yard.

After using a small torch and a mall in my attempts it began to "mushroom" the top of the rudder post a bit, so before I caused any real damage or deformation I stopped.

As per LuckyDave's suggestion, I tried to loosen the packing nut/glands but they are fairly corroded and look as though they haven't had any attention in some time (surprise!). I had no success there either even with generous amounts of PB, a large pipe wrench and a cheater bar.

The one good thing is that I will not have to scuff any more knuckles on this particular project. I am supplying the yard with GFO packing to re-pack the rudders. Hopefully they will not need service again for a VERY long time!

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. They are greatly appreciated!

[yachtsmanbill]

WTF??? Pull the whole rudder post out the bottom and work on the bench like a civilized butcher !! Four bolts and your home free. You need to rebed them after 30 years anyway ws

[Nonchalant1]

You can't get the rudder post out unless you can get the arm off, which he can't. The rudder port does not hold the rudder post at all. It just acts as a bushing. If you can't see to locate any remaining setscrews, I would stick a digital camera down around there and blow up the pictures to view it better.

Here's what mine looks like. I can hardly see in there well, but I can hold a camera down close and let the flash light it up. You can see the one big bolt on the top of the rudder arm that holds the key into the keyway. You can also see one of the two allen wrench type setscrews on the collar underneath the rudder arm.

When I removed the one keyslot bolt and the two setscrews in the lower collar, the rudder dropped out easily.

Doug Shuman

[MikeP]

GFO is great - I am a convert to it myself, not originally being a believer but trying it based on recommendations on this site. Now, after a season of completely dry bilges I'm convinced of it's value. But for the rudder application it's unnecessary. There is no rotation to generate heat/require the water lubrication/dripping that conventional packing needs on a prop shaft. Obviously if you're buying GFO packing anyway for the shaft or for spare or whatever, the additional cost is certainly not an issue but if you happen to have conventional packing laying around the boat, just use that. Tighten the box 'till it doesn't leak and forget about it. It'll work as well as GFO for this.

Pretty bonding strap!