'splain it to me -

[yachtsmanbill]

Since there is a lull in the action, I need a little discumbobulatin
I am in the middle of converting the secondary filters to spin ons. It is my understanding that the fuel is drawn through the racors (30 mic) up to the fuel pump, pushed through the secondary (10 mic) to the fuel rail and returned to the tank. Although I duplicated the piping from the old to the new, I still dont get it.
Look at the pics-- the T comes from the racor into the spin on (fuel pressure switch there also) and continues to the pump. Then returns to the secondary
back to the rail and then home. Is the big covered line to the right the return?
There is a check valve after the racor before the spin on.
Engines are in the water winterized and cant be run for another month or so.
Any input?? ws

[SKYCHENEY]

You are correct. The setup is first to the primary, then to the fuel pump and then to the secondary and on to the injectors. What is the question? If you hooked it up the same way, then you should be all set.

[yachtsmanbill]

After looking at my own pics, I realized that the big covered line to the right is from the racor to the pump. I dont get why the T is there with a line BACK to the racor, even tho there is a check between the two.
The T has the fuel pressure switch so it must be the pressure side.

[Genesis]

Well that don't make much sense.

Here's how it ought to be (who knows who had the boat before you, right?)

1. Fuel tank to primary separator (Racor or Fleetguard 30 mic water separator spin-on)

2. Second stage (optional) - Fleetguard FS1000.

3. Fuel pump

4. "Last chance" filter. Stock is a cannister filter with a drain plug on the bottom. The hobbs switch is on the output of this filter in the stock configuration. This filter is under pressure (nominal 60psi when the engine is running)

5. Fuel rails on the cylinder heads.

[yachtsmanbill]

I could not agree more! The thing that bugs me is the line from the bottom of the T which goes to the fuel primer plunger (!) which is fed at another T at the racor. Evidently, the primer must have a check in it also to hold 60psi when the engines are running. Buy default, I'm a virgo and a german so everything needs to be symetrical and run in a straight line... The P.O.K.H. -previous owner knuckle head, ran hoses all over and around etc making tracing stuff damn near impossible. The next pics will show the racor supply and I think it will show that all's well. I hope ! The last pic I THINK is the rail return to the tank. As you can see, its like a RUBIKS cube only different. Ill post new pics of this stuff in two years, and it will re-write the book on sanitation ws

[Boss Lady]

It never ceases to amaze me what people do to boats. It seems they all attend Billy bob's school of engineering (mail order degree mill). I mean all you really have to do is replace things with the same part it came with, why these people feel possessed to de-engineer things is beyond me.

[yachtsmanbill]

Chris, I am going to use your quote on "de-engineer" -- That is an understatement. I have made a dozen wire repairs where the connectors were corroded off, wires twisted together, and duct taped for insulation.
After Billy Bob made his fix, he found it too difficult to put the covers or plugs back in so the stuff is awash-- and usually lost.
Is it really that difficult to finish a job so it works and looks right and gives you a sense of pride in your accomplishments?? When ever I go in to a compartment I have to take the wire nippers to cut the zip tie tails off. Nothing like getting poked in the eye by one. When done, I account for all of them too. I had one jam a bilge pump once. Its all just one part of the big job.
BTW-- those windows are JAMMIN" !!! ws

[Maynard Rupp]

Chris, I am going to use your quote on "de-engineer" -- That is an understatement. I have made a dozen wire repairs where the connectors were corroded off, wires twisted together, and duct taped for insulation.
After Billy Bob made his fix, he found it too difficult to put the covers or plugs back in so the stuff is awash-- and usually lost.
Is it really that difficult to finish a job so it works and looks right and gives you a sense of pride in your accomplishments?? When ever I go in to a compartment I have to take the wire nippers to cut the zip tie tails off. Nothing like getting poked in the eye by one. When done, I account for all of them too. I had one jam a bilge pump once. Its all just one part of the big job.
BTW-- those windows are JAMMIN" !!! ws

We don't use wire ties on airplanes. The poor mechanic always comes out with a bloody arm when people use those things. We use a lacing twine. this stuff is a flat, thin cord, waxed and died black. it is cheap and one roll lasts a long time. You don't cut a piece, but pull a length, wrap it around the bundle twice, make a clove hitch followed by one half hitch. Now you cut the tail and the spool end. The stuff is neat, soft, and with practice, can be done much faster than tie wraps. I hate those things and every one on our Hat is brittle and most break when you bother them.

[yachtsmanbill]

Can you post a link for the stuff Maynard?? I like a lot of aircraft stuff. Those zip ties will lay you open ! When I cut mine I am careful to cut them absolutely flush and square AND turn them around to the backside so you dont need sutures. I am sure most of us have scars from them
My SBC pal gives me 1000s of them in colors and lengths and some have an eye for securing with a screw. Those are pulled tight and trimmed before securing, but its an effort to use them in a tight spot. ws

[agblizzyb]

Hi Al here
Yachtman the proper sequence is as follows:
1 from fuel tank
2 fuel mgmt valve(selectors)
3 to the primary filter
4 on to the seconday filter
5 to the fuel pump
6 to the injectors
7 from the injectors to the fuel cooler(if youhave one)
8 finally back to the fuel tank

Ps. the three line shown are one input to the secondary filter and two output from the secondary filter.