Welcome to the Hatteras Owners Forum & Gallery. Sign Up or Login

Enter partial or full part description to search the Hatteras/Cabo parts catalog (for example: breaker or gauge)
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. #1

    Connecting Chain Rodes

    I have a friend who as offered me his old anchor rode. It is 3/8" HT in very good condition which is exactly what I am looking into upgrading to. The problem is (and the reason he replaced it) is that it is two 150' sections joined together. The joint is the problem as it would get caught in his gypsy each time it passed. He finally bought a new 300' length to avoid the trouble.

    Is there is any way to have them joined together in a manner that would 1. pass through the gypsy and 2. not reduce the overall strength? I would love to just have a link made to connect them, but I do not know how or where to do this. Surely shipping it to/from ACCO or otherwise would be cost prohibitive and I may have to just break down and buy all new chain for the boat. Any other suggestions?? THANKS!

  2. #2

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    There is a link that can be bought that is basically 2 "C" shapes that overlap and they have a female in one side and and a male in the other . You join the two by peening the males into the female. It supposedly is as strong as the chain itself . I had to cut mine one time and used one of these to repair it. It never jumps out of the chain gypsy. Worst Marine #135715......Pat

  3. #3

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    Why not cut a SS link at the weld, heat it, bend open and join the 2 chains together, close the link and get it welded. Tig Welding is the best for this application. Would not think this would cost more than .10 boat dollars.

  4. #4

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    SS is not anywhere near as strong as the galvanized chain...............Pat

  5. #5

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    Pat, that is an EXCELLENT idea and exactly what I was looking for. Problem is, when I went to the WM site and typed in the part number (thank you) the description that comes up states that the link is as strong as similarly sized proof coil chain. Unfortunately proof coil chain is about half the strength of hi-test/G4 chain. I want to use 3/8" HT but if I use that link it will reduce the strength of my 3/8"HT down to that of 3/8" proof coil chain, which is the same as the current 1/4"HT/G4 that I am trying to upgrade from. I'm afraid that if I use that product with the HT I would gain only the weight of the chain and none of the extra strength. I sure hope I am missing something here!

  6. #6

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    I've had one in my rode for about 3 years now. Last August we rode out Ernesto in Sandy Hook ,NJ. For 40 hours it blew 45-70mph and we had all 450 feet of chain out . No problems. My boat is very heavy also for a 61 CMY. I did think alot about that little POS in the middle of the damn rode the whole time though!!! I will replace it probably this season when I remove the windlass main shaft which got bent during that storm.....................Pat

  7. #7

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    Byron,
    I'll look in my anchoring book tonight. I'm sure I saw some remedies for this situation. I'll let you know.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

  8. Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    If it were me I would weld a link in, it is a pain to haul that much chain somewhere, but most yards can handle it, and it is cheap to do. just cut a link from the end and reweld it.
    Chris
    1973 48' Yachtfish
    "Boss Lady" my other expensive girlfriend.
    Follow the refurb at www.starcarpentry.com

  9. #9

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    You folks are talking about a cold shut, i.e. the peened shut. There is also a welded shut that is better. Both claim to be the same strength as the chain and if you have the correct size, are the same size as the chain which makes the gypsy happy.

    Ted

  10. #10

    Re: Connecting Chain Rodes

    Byron,
    What you need is splicing link called a Permanent Riveted Joining Link. It is the two "C" halves that you join with 4 rivets. I don't know where you can get one, but that is what Hinz recommends.
    Sky Cheney
    1985 53EDMY, Hull #CN759, "Rebecca"
    ELYC on White Lake--Montague, MI

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts