Window frames were absolute hell. They came out easy enough. They are split horizontally. So you are going to need some help getting them out. Once they are out you can dissamble them and put the glass someplace safe. Start by sandblasting the frames. If you are lucky you don't have too much corrosion, but I was not so lucky. This is a joint venture between my Father and Brother. My Father is a retired engineer and has had a lot of experience with aircraft tool design among other things. He made me some special little tools to remove the felt. A set of cheap dental picks helped out the most though. The oxidation on the aluminum tracks for the frames is like concrete. Some acid used to clean aluminum with help a little, but for the most part it is just time consuming picking to get them clean. They have to be perfect for the new felts to work. Pick up some new felts and plastic window slide material from Sam's Marine. They have it in stock. Use JB weld to fix up any pits or holes in the frames and sand it down ready for paint. After they are painted, refelt and install the windows at the boat. I had all the windows retinted before I reinstalled. This makes for a clean excellent job. If I had to do it all over again, I think I would replace with one piece of tinted plexi, due to the fact that they still do not slide really well and will probably still leak. Probably never open them up anyway, but I wanted to go back original as can be. This task was very time consuming, but I think it really brings back the original look to a vessel that still has the looks of even some of today's boats. I am going to post some pictures of the engine overhauls my Father has done. I will start a new post, so tell me what you think.
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Thread: Cost of Hull Painting
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11-19-2006 10:44 PM #31Senior Member
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Re: Cost of Hull Painting
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11-19-2006 10:46 PM #32Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
- Posts
- 174
Re: Cost of Hull Painting
No rot in the cockpit floor. There was some under the doors, but it was an easy fix.
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Re: Cost of Hull Painting
I hate to rain on your parade but you cant stop window frame corrosion. there are going to be inclusions, which are little caves, full of the stuff. the hole may be the size of a pin but the cavity will be much larger and will grow. I did the same thing, sandblasting frames etc. used dremel with carbide tip to grind out all the inclusions i could find, drilled all the screw holes bigger, counter sunk all and then filled them in. we did not use screws on the frames, only 5200.
The one thing you should have done is soak the frames with dupont epoxy zinc primer, then fill the holes with jb weld. The zinc oxide will slow the corrosion process. mine are in place now for 2 yrs and thus far no corrosion has shown its face.
i only did the front saloon windows, replaced the sliding side ones with new fixed frames, Waterway Systems made them.
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Re: Cost of Hull Painting
Originally Posted by 67hat34c
I know the paint is a really sleek look, but I would go back to the old school bronze anodized finish. After getting the pits & holes rewelded, you'd get the added benefit of the acid dip all the anodizing shops do to prep for their process. And, I'd either drill & tap the frames from behind to keep the exterior screw free, or I'd use silicone bronze tapping screws from the exterior. And besides, with tinted glass, the bronze-colored frame doesn't stand out so much.-- Paul
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Re: Cost of Hull Painting
Paul I tried to weld the holes, only had mig and it made a mess. need Tig welder to do proper job. Our new frames were drilled and tapped on the inside for clamping . once 5200 dried claims off and fill in the holes system worked perfect. have series of photo if anyone wants to see, file too large for this site