Water leak from bridge into the salon on 1979 53YF

[LakeSuperiorBob]

I need to fix a leak into the salon. Looking for some guidance on this, as I am a new owner of a 1979 53' Hatteras YF. At the end of last year, it was showing a leak into the salon from the bridge. Issue may have started from the bridge not being shrinkwrapped in previous years, which allowed heavy snow to melt and re-freeze on the bridge in different cycles. I can see a sag in the ceiling of the salon toward the starboard side, which is also evident from the bridge, which will water to puddle on the bridge. Would not be surprised to find a joist is fractured. I can not see a crack in the fiberglass.

How to remove and repair headliner, joist, and fiberglass if necessary?

The bridge has the frame for a canopy, but the previous owner removed the canopy years ago. Source for a new canopy?

I uploaded a couple of pictures, the wood frame for the shrinkwrap and carpet fibers are present in the pictures.

bridge.jpg

salon 2.jpg

[CaptainMax]

To get the exact spot of the leak the best bet is going to be to remove the headliner in the salon. Once this is down you can follow the water trail up to the flybridge or where ever it is coming from. That being said (and might be a little different as I have a fully enclosed flybridge from factor (one of a kind)) start your search where the flybridge meets the deck. I have had to re-bed the screws along white beading silicone around the whole exterior. Hope this helps!

[SEVEN]

I have your exact boat but a MY, if you want to give me a call I’ll be more than happy to tell you what I found on mine. It would take a couple of pages to type out. I’d rather discuss it with you. 650-619-2308 Rusty

[MadHatter53]

Come on Rusty posting your findings here could help others with similar issues. I’m chasing a leak or two from up top but only during heavy rain.

[SEVEN]

Ok I’ll keep it quick.

1.replace all screws and beauty rings inside and out of the fly bridge. Squeeze 4200 in each hole so it Who is out once tight. Clean up the access with acetone.

2. Clean drain holes in each corner. Not just the inside tube but the outside tube. They will be full of dirt/mud/buds etc.

3. Take all the screws that hold the metal Stanchions out and embed with 4200. I mean all of the Stanchions. Even the ones that support the wind screen.

I stopped all leaks from the fly bridge by doing this.

[SEVEN]

I don’t have a photo of the corner tubes but you can see what I have done.

[rwaldrop13]

Don't discount the possibility of leaks from weird places. I found water leaks on Pau Hana in the salon from the flybridge/upper helm were coming from just before radar arch divider (I was inside the upper helm console with a flashlight during a torrential SW Florida downpour. The leak was actually coming from old antenna mounts on the outside of the upper helm, and I never successfully removed them. I was able to reduce the leak by smearing epoxy on the inside where the screws were (I gave up on removing the antenna mounts because of location.

[Bob Quinn]

Ok I’ll keep it quick.

1.replace all screws and beauty rings inside and out of the fly bridge. Squeeze 4200 in each hole so it Who is out once tight. Clean up the access with acetone.

2. Clean drain holes in each corner. Not just the inside tube but the outside tube. They will be full of dirt/mud/buds etc.

3. Take all the screws that hold the metal Stanchions out and embed with 4200. I mean all of the Stanchions. Even the ones that support the wind screen.

I stopped all leaks from the fly bridge by doing this.

Yep, if you hunt around in here enough you will find this is a common problem. The screws holding the upper fly bridge down seem to be the common issue. As rusty says replace and re-screw.
I did just slightly different in that I used the tapered wood shims to lift the lip up so when I squirted in the 4200 it expanded out around the hole in between the ring of the flybridge and the top deck. First I went around and put the wedges in all the way around then began with the sealant. I would squirt a couple holes, remove the wedges in that area and re-screw and worked my way around. It wasn't too bad maybe 3-6 hour job. Just be careful up there!
I also went to the next size up stainless steel screw up to no. 10 screws. I don't know if I would recommend that fully. It was a good idea I think except that all I could find was a courser pitch no. 10 screws. It worked out good but some wanted to grab on one edge and screw in crooked due to the course pitch. That seemed to fix my leak. That and clean out under the storage area etc. and get the drains free flowing. Others have completely removed the fly bridge and put in epoxy and re-drilled etc. More than a few ways to skin the cat I suppose. What stinks is you will find some of the screws so corroded that they break off when trying to remove and they have to be drilled out. (Part of why I went to larger screws) I wish I would have caught the acetone tip. I just wiped as best I could with paper towel, and didn't get the prettiest job.

FYI I'm on the opposite end of Michigan over in Algonac.

I also found some old radio equipment and rotted screws holding down wires under the storage area up there under where the windscreen is. After cleaning out the old crap and cleaning the deck around the holes I lightly sanded around where the holes were and sprayed on some of that liquid silicone you see on TV. Yeah I know that's a cheat versus actually doing and epoxy repair, but it's hidden so I don't care. I also cut in 3 new hatches while I was up there because I'm to fat to get in that little access hole. Now I have all that area for my tools storage.

[SEVEN]

Rather than using a thicker screw I installed a half inch longer screw. That way, I grabbed onto some new wood and as I stated, filled the entire void with 4200 and once it screwed down, it is out which then completely blocked the water from getting in.

[LakeSuperiorBob]

Those are some great tips. Thank you.