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  1. #1

    Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    Bilge check valves, Yes or No??
    Currently replacing bilge pumps, and hoses.

    1. One is in the forward bilge, usually a AC condensation drain sump.

    2. 2nd is forward in the ER between the engines. Usually a AC condensation drain sump.

    Should they be there or no?
    Attached Images
    Eddie Clemons Nashville, TN Southern Pride 1988 52CHATCS441K788 2004 Caterpillar 3406e's

  2. #2

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    Rule pumps, or any centrifugal pump, specifically prohibit check valves. Other type pumps may be able to use them such as diaphram or vane type. If it were me I'd eliminate that entire mess and run only hose.
    Last edited by bostonhatteras; 02-29-2024 at 07:22 AM.

  3. #3

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    It an only a matter of time before they jam. There was only one case where I had to use one, it was a flat bilge in a lazarette with a small sump in the floor which was to shallow. Pump would run but too much water would flow back.

    In your case are they bilge pumps or sump pumps? Is the AC condensation going in the bilge or in a sump box?

    But worst than check valves are rule switches. I still have one on my boat, all the others are now ultra switches. I did all the bilge pumps about 7 or 8 years ago, with new wiring plumbing etc to 5 3700s and new switches. 4 have failed since, one burning up its pump. Rule switches were great years ago but have become worthless
    Last edited by Pascal; 02-29-2024 at 07:55 AM.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

  4. #4

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    One solution for pump switches is to add a relay to actually switch the pump on and off
    and let the pump switch kick the relay. A 12 volt 100 amp relay is cheap.
    This eliminates the reverse voltage you get switching an electric motor on and off.
    Jimmy
    2000 Mainship 390 "Anticipation"
    Currenty at The Wharf, Orange Beach AL
    http://anticipation-cruisingwiththeb...1_archive.html

  5. #5

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    Hose only.
    SEVEN
    1979 53' MY Hull #563
    Antioch, California

  6. #6

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    Quote Originally Posted by Eddieclemons View Post
    Bilge check valves,

    Should they be there or no?
    No
    No
    No
    Don't forget the rise in the discharge hose above the outlet thru hull.

    With that said, if you must have them; use serviceable & non metallic valves.
    Examples only;
    https://www.westmarine.com/bosworth-...2_003_515.html
    https://www.westmarine.com/whale-pum...ve-100711.html

  7. #7

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyB View Post
    One solution for pump switches is to add a relay to actually switch the pump on and off
    and let the pump switch kick the relay. A 12 volt 100 amp relay is cheap.
    This eliminates the reverse voltage you get switching an electric motor on and off.
    That's never how they fail though. They start sticking in the up position which burns up the (very expensive 32v) bilge pumps once you're not on the boat. I have lost count of how many times that's happened to me, and how many times I've had to go crawling in the bilge underway and screw with the float switch because the light on the helm won't go off.

    Once they start doing that, you can clean it out and WD40 it, and it'll start working again for a little while, but eventually no matter what you do they still stick in the up position at which point you just have to replace them. You only get a couple years in between replacements. It's something defective about the hinge design. 20 years ago they didn't do this, but the current Rule switches all eventually do this.

    I haven't had this issue since I took Pascal's suggestion and put in Ultra switches 3 years ago, since then I haven't had a single problem, and haven't had to screw with a switch once, and haven't had to replace another $400 bilge pump.

  8. #8

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    Since Pascal brought up pump switches, here's arguably the best you can get. https://ultrasafetysystems.com/conta...mpswitch_infor You'll never need to replace it, that's for certain

  9. #9

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    You might also see if you can get smooth-wall hose which will increase the flow rates of the pumps, as that corrugated hose makes the pump have to work harder.

    I agree with no check valves, but you should have loops above the waterline as well.

    I did have an Ultra pump switch fail. It was easily 25 years old, maybe older. They are the most reliable ones out there.

  10. #10

    Re: Bilge hose check valves, Yes or No?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pascal View Post
    It an only a matter of time before they jam. There was only one case where I had to use one, it was a flat bilge in a lazarette with a small sump in the floor which was to shallow. Pump would run but too much water would flow back.

    In your case are they bilge pumps or sump pumps? Is the AC condensation going in the bilge or in a sump box?

    But worst than check valves are rule switches. I still have one on my boat, all the others are now ultra switches. I did all the bilge pumps about 7 or 8 years ago, with new wiring plumbing etc to 5 3700s and new switches. 4 have failed since, one burning up its pump. Rule switches were great years ago but have become worthless
    They don’t have mercury in the Rule float switches anymore. They used to last 5-10years.
    Last edited by dsharp; 02-29-2024 at 07:43 PM.

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