Help! Dead Windlass, not really an emergency but kinda stuck.

[Bob Quinn]

We decided for the first time this year to "camp out". Got to our destination just a few minutes ago and can't get the anchor to drop. Switches are dead. Can't find a breaker for the windlass.
Had someone listen for clicking in the front anchor box where the solenoids are. no noticeable clicking.
Any thoughts? We are not in any danger, just would have to head back to the dock, but hoping to anchor out

[madhatter1]

If no wind and current just use the backup anchor if sufficient. Figure out windlass while hooked up and the reset.

[madhatter1]

Then reset

[osprey]

The windlass is most likely to get power from the left side fuse box. there you should find a 100 amp current limiter (like a big square fuse) it should be labled.

Good luck. P

[Pascal]

There are usually two different breakers for the windlass. There should be a breaker for the power to the solenoid box, and it should be close to the batteries. Not familiar with your specific boat/vintage but I could be in a sub panel.

If you have switches at the helm(s) there should be a breaker to protect them and the wiring to the solenoid box

First thing to check is for power at the solenoid box in the anchor locker. Grab your multimeter and check for voltage at the heavy wires coming from the batteries / panel. If you have power there, check for power at the foot switches.

Btw, what kind of windlass do you have ?

Worst case scenario, pull the chain off the chain gypsy to drop and the pull it up by hand. It s not fun but it beats heading back to the dock. I did it a few times when my windlass was being converted to 24v.

[warrenw]

The Galley Maid BBHW windlass on my boat had a 150A breaker built into the left side of the control box at the windlass motor. With that breaker off everything is dead, no power to deck switches or relays on the control box.

[Bob Quinn]

Thank you everyone. returned to the dock. will investigate tomorrow.

[Bob Quinn]

There are usually two different breakers for the windlass. There should be a breaker for the power to the solenoid box, and it should be close to the batteries. Not familiar with your specific boat/vintage but I could be in a sub panel.

If you have switches at the helm(s) there should be a breaker to protect them and the wiring to the solenoid box

First thing to check is for power at the solenoid box in the anchor locker. Grab your multimeter and check for voltage at the heavy wires coming from the batteries / panel. If you have power there, check for power at the foot switches.

Btw, what kind of windlass do you have ?

Worst case scenario, pull the chain off the chain gypsy to drop and the pull it up by hand. It s not fun but it beats heading back to the dock. I did it a few times when my windlass was being converted to 24v.

It's a galley maid.

The chain is real tight. I think I probably over torqued it the last time I pulled it in.

I'll hunt around for the breakers etc.
I did find last night I have 28 or so volts on the big wires at the solenoids.
Must be a breaker for the control wiring is off or popped.

[Pascal]

Is your boat 24v or 32v ? If 32v you need to recheck the voltage at the solenoids, make sure you have good contact between the wires and the probes. If you really have 28v with a 32v system that that’s likely your problem. It could be corrosion or a loose wire. You need to see how power is sent to the windlass. Sometimes there is battery switch, or a breaker. Who knows if the windlass wiring was modified in the last 40 years

If the windlass is 24v then open the solenoid box, there could be a fuse in there to protect the switches

[Bob Quinn]

Is your boat 24v or 32v ? If 32v you need to recheck the voltage at the solenoids, make sure you have good contact between the wires and the probes. If you really have 28v with a 32v system that that’s likely your problem. It could be corrosion or a loose wire. You need to see how power is sent to the windlass. Sometimes there is battery switch, or a breaker. Who knows if the windlass wiring was modified in the last 40 years

If the windlass is 24v then open the solenoid box, there could be a fuse in there to protect the switches

32 volt system. I will check again with a different meter too. Not sure how accurate the one I have is, it's on an amprobe, unknown accuracy.