Engine oil pre-lube / pre-oiler system? Any one using these?

[Bob Quinn]

In researching the possibility of pre-oiling the motors before startup to have instant oil pressure,
I found the following.

https://www.flocomponents.com/sln_en...ation_systems/

Has anyone used anything like this?

Supposedly most like 75 t0 90% of engine wear occurs during cold starts, so wouldn't it make sense to have something like this? Especially with 30 or 40k price tag on DD engine rebuilds?

Just wondering if anyone has used these.
Thanks,
Bob

[Captain Ralph]

Ever looked over a set of bearings from an old Detroit?
Certainly not pretty, but still there.
In frame rebuilds usually use standard sized bearings and rarely are the cam bearings messed with.

It is the spinning of the crank that sprays/splashes oil up to the pistons and liners. IMO is where most Detroit issues of wear and abuse occurs.
I'm not sure a pre-lube device would really help here.

If you are real concerned, spin the engine with the stop button pressed a few seconds, then release the stop switch to start. This may help get some oil into the galleys before the pistons start applying power to the crankshaft.

The money for a pre-luber could be better spent ensuring the integrity of the fuel system and injectors. Also keeping up with oil changes with quality oil.

For the folk with open check books; Go for it and let us know how much longer your engine last.

[Bob Quinn]

"For the folk with open check books; Go for it and let us know how much longer your engine last."

That's the funny part. One would possibly never know. It would be a labor of blind faith!

I would think though that something relatively simple could be installed, similar to the simple fuel priming systems people have been installing. There are probably some simple electric oil pumps out there.

[Captain Ralph]

Wires, plumbing, more stuff on a reliable engine bugs me at times.

The best set up I came across was an accumulator rig.
With a running engine, oil pressure would fill up an accumulator and a manual valve would be closed to hold the pressurized oil.
The next cold start, open the valve, oil flows back into the engine, crank er up and build oil pressure back up, close the valve.

That was on the NOAA ship Heck. Built in 1965/66. Cummins powered with bath-tub transmissions. Also hand pump up hydraulic starters.

Not saying much but that was the only install of a working pre-luber I've ever seen.
I've witnessed a few old Cats with pre-lubers. Non of those worked. and were removed.

[cww]

One more thing to break. In reality most of the time detroits get rebuilt because they were running hot and nobody addressed the cooling system fast enough, or an injector was stuck and nobody fixed it fast enough before washdown happened, stuff like that. Some of the sportfish guys who put 15,000 hours on every few years have to rebuild just because of operating time, but everybody else it's usually from neglect. Not because of not having enough gadgets on the lube oil system.

[Captain Ralph]

One more thing to break. In reality most of the time detroits get rebuilt because they were running hot and nobody addressed the cooling system fast enough, or an injector was stuck and nobody fixed it fast enough before washdown happened, stuff like that. Some of the sportfish guys who put 15,000 hours on every few years have to rebuild just because of operating time, but everybody else it's usually from neglect. Not because of not having enough gadgets on the lube oil system.

Probably said better with way less typing.

[Bob Quinn]

Probably said better with way less typing.

Yes, and yes, and I have seen several of the tank / compressed air types, Jeg's sells one. Mostly for when / after rebuilding a motor and use prior to first start up.

What is the consensus on the "hold the stop button" for a few seconds method?
That seems like a simple option provided it isn't a "bad" thing to do?

How long does it really take to pump oil through all the critical areas?

I was watching some videos of people using the tank / compressed air type and it was, I think, more than 20 seconds.

Would holding the stop button create wash down from pumping in fuel?

[Captain Ralph]

Yes, and yes, and I have seen several of the tank / compressed air types, Jeg's sells one. Mostly for when / after rebuilding a motor and use prior to first start up.

What is the consensus on the "hold the stop button" for a few seconds method?
That seems like a simple option provided it isn't a "bad" thing to do?

How long does it really take to pump oil through all the critical areas?

I was watching some videos of people using the tank / compressed air type and it was, I think, more than 20 seconds.

Would holding the stop button create wash down from pumping in fuel?

If you have a good battery bank, spinning the engine a few seconds hurts nothing.

I have mechanical oil pressure gauges at my lower helm. When you see them come up, there is oil. Maybe 5 spinning seconds when cold. When warm, there not moving, but then, your warm and parts should still be wet of oil.

If your holding the stop button down, that is pulling the governor to no fuel. So, there is no fuel to wash the lungs down (unless you have a bad injector).

[Fanfare]

I reengined in 1993, going from 8V-71 naturals to 6V-92 turbocharged and aftercooled engines on Jack Hargrave's recommendation. I had owned a turbocharged car with instructions to idle two minutes after hard driving to cool the turbo and prevent coking of the turbo bearings. So, for the new engines I installed three sets of Marine Pre-Lubers (TM), for two engines and one generator. These had an electronic module controlling a small motor connected to an ordinary oil pump. Turning the ignition key started the pump, putting out 40 psi in about 5 seconds. Good, but the real reason I used them was when the engines were shut down and the ignition key released a variable timer would circulate oil through the system and the turbocharger. I set mine for six minutes after shut down. Having gone through several hour meters in 29 years I can only estimate my total engine hours, about 3,000, probably half at 1,950 rpm. I have had no running problems with the engines or generator (non-turbo, but I figured I could swap it to an engine if one luber failed). Both engines start at once, 5 seconds of light smoke on starboard, none on port. Never need to add oil!

An unexpected bonus was the ease of changing the oil. Warm the engines, disconnect the oil return line and pump it into an empty 5 gallon can. The manufacturer included a quick-disconnect fitting for each pump for this. My mechanic said to me "You really don't want your main oil line to disconnect without your putting some effort into it." Now I undo three bolts first.

I believe the Pre-Lubers have been a good investment. In the past we would spend weeks anchored out, running the generator constantly. I change its oil weekly and doing so using the Pre-Luber as a pump meant I could get the oil out faster than I could add it back in. I have tried to find the manufacturer from 29 years ago, but no luck. Using its own engine oil means no need to fill some new reservoir and the pre- and post-lube timers still seem good to me. Somebody out there must still make one.

[Bob Quinn]

I got a quote from PRM Industries out of Pennsylvania. $3,740 to do both motors.
Just fyi. I'm still liking the "crank it over with the stop button pushed" idea better.
These do have the added benefit of also being a nice convenient oil change system as well.