Raw water cooling elbow

[Captain Ralph]

I tried 2 marine exhaust companies local and a $3000 quote came from them. NOPE!! Found a welding shop that can braze a new Y section on so that’s in the works. I’ll keep everyone updated.

Please remind your shop that warm salt water will be passing thru their work.
Some rod wire formulas will react different others.
DeAngelo always did my work. Western Branch NC has a favorite shop also.

[Play'N Hooky Too]

These guys have bought up many of the old spec drawings for a lot of the exhaust elbows, risers, etc used on Hatteras and other boats (or so they claim).

http://www.mesamarine.com/

If you send them the manufacturer and part number they can likely make you a new if they have the spec sheet for it in their files.

[BOATER BOB]

If you get in a tight use the right size raw water hose reduce down with a bronze tee fitting to smaller hoses on the end cheap and long lasting.

[ageless]

Please remind your shop that warm salt water will be passing thru their work.Some rod wire formulas will react different others.DeAngelo always did my work. Western Branch NC has a favorite shop also.

DeAngelo is 3 weeks out and didn’t seem too interested, I think that’s why the $3k price, got another from metcalf marine for $2500. I told him not to do any work until he discussed with me his material of choice and he does know its a cooling elbow for salt water

[Captain Ralph]

If you send them the manufacturer and part number they can likely make you a new if they have the spec sheet for it in their files.

The only DDC part number is the bronze flange that bolts to the heat exchanger. The plumbing after that coupler was custom order by Hatteras. BTW, that flange is no longer available thru DDC.

[dsharp]

It looks like a hard copper bell reducer shaped around the 2 - 2” tubes. You can’t tell with the paint on it if the connections are sweated or brazed. Curious to see the new one when fabricated.

[ageless]

It looks like a hard copper bell reducer shaped around the 2 - 2” tubes. You can’t tell with the paint on it if the connections are sweated or brazed. Curious to see the new one when fabricated.

Here’s what I received today