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  1. #1

    Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    OK, I give up. I've been replacing the foot switches for my windlass about every fourth trip. The only ones I can find locally are at Boaters World - Seadog or something like that. They aren't carrying a load, only activating the solenoids, yet they fail at an unreasonable rate. It's usually the "up" switch that goes, as it gets used more. I then wrap the chain in reverse around the gypsy and use the down switch until I can replace the up switch. Today both failed. And they were both replaced in November last season.

    Does anyone know of a switch that will handle more than 1000' of anchor chain before it quits?

  2. #2

    Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    Sams has one at http://www.samsmarine.com/PartSearch...emNmbr=S78391A. I have one on my boat with no problems for 4 years though I do not use all chain and only use for raising. I would think that a marine momentary diesel starter switch would also work.

  3. Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    Something is wrong. The solenoid draw is modest and should in no way stress a decent switch...UIse the suggested one from Sam's or any other brand, perhaps one from a windlass manufacturer...

  4. #4

    Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    I'm going to try the Cole Hersee M490 first. I really don't need the entire mechanism, just the switch. Hopefully the M490, which is listed as heavy duty - up to 35amps - will be more dependable than the cr@p I've been using.

    I just ordered 4 at $10 each from Boatfix, so at least I'll have spares if they are junk too.

  5. Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    Cole Herse should get the job done...I don't think the solenoid windings can draw much over five or six amps, maybe ten at most....Are you sure moisture is not the culprit???

  6. Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    The switch itself is just a Cole-Hearse button switch (like your starter switch) and can be replaced.

    Make sure the boot is sealed and water isn't getting in there. It doesn't take much to get in the contacts and hose you.

  7. #7

    Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    If you can get inside the switch before you install it, trying spraying Corrosion block in there before installing it. Maybe that will help.

  8. #8

    Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    Good suggestions. I'll give them a shot of corrosion block, and goop them up a bit when I reinstall. I really think that the root cause is the low quality of the Seadog switch. We'll see how the CH switches do.

    I'm tired of pulling in the all chain rode by hand. Had over 200' out today when it quit. I'm in fair shape, but at 50, I just don't need to be doing that. I'm sure I can find more interesting ways of giving myself a coronary.

  9. #9

    Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    You should check the windlass controller. I had a similar problem with my Galley Maid unit and discovered bad relays in the controller. The contacts were toast.

    Will

  10. #10

    Re: Those %$&#!! Windlass foot switches

    a couple of years ago, I replaced the orginal (?) switches (indeed smiliar to the start switches) with italian made Ravennas, distributed by Plastimo. I like the fact that you can activate them with your toe, if you're barefoot, thru a hole in the cover, without flipping the cover open... so far so good.

    problem with the old ones was that moisture getting in once actaully activated the up switch.... at 4am, with 20kts wind... now i never forget to flip the breaker off and cleat the chain for the night :-)

    except for moisture, i dont' see how these switches can fail... they just activate the solenoid with very little load.
    Pascal
    Miami, FL
    1970 53 MY #325 Cummins 6CTAs
    2014 26' gaff rigged sloop
    2007 Sandbarhopper 13
    12' Westphal Cat boat

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